Thread: CKP Voltage and plug/terminal part description

Is the crankshaft position sensor for the V8 or Td5?

Originally Posted by James NZ

Hiya,

following on from my fuel pump problem, and replacement, I have an intermittent stumbling/misfire type problem. I tested the CKP whilst running and found it only put out 1.19 volts on idle (Rave states 2-3volts) and at 3000 rpm the DMM would fluctuate around 1.9 to 2.3 volts (Rave states 6 - 6.5V over 1000rpm). So I traced the wiring and found the wire hanging on by a couple of strands right at the plug.

Can anyone please tell me the plug name or description and the same for the terminals so I can get replacements. Also, can I cut the original wires back a bit and splice in new bits of cable. And how does the ground sheath work? Is it earthed at both ends or just at connector CO158?

Thanks, James NZ

Are you testing with the meter set to ac volts?

Even then I doubt a multi meter would be up to the job, an oscilloscope would be ideal.

Originally Posted by FNQLR

Are you testing with the meter set to ac volts?

Even then I doubt a multi meter would be up to the job, an oscilloscope would be ideal.

+1 for that^^^

If you want to buy the connector in pieces scroll down in the link and you have all the p/ns there Connector Suitable to Fit Land Rover Defender TD5 Crankshaft Position Sensor | eBay

You can cut and splice, but you may find it slow to start. The pulses seem to be interrupted by the starter motor. Shielded cable is easy to get, and you could just wire it direct , -1 C0158 - 13, - 2 to C0158 - 36 and the screen to C0158 - 16.. This is thanks to sierrfery.

Screenshot 2024-07-18 at 8.19.22 PM.png

I got the connector here. fine, seal well and fit. I depinned mine though. Easy enough.

Hi,

thanks for all the replies and link to the parts fellas. My apologies for not stating its on the TD5. I don't have a oscilloscope, it would be nice, if I knew how to use one. Rave states the expected voltage so I assumed a DMM was up to the task and and I knew to measure it in AC. I might do as JayTee suggested and just make a standalone loom from the sensor to the ECU plug.

Couple more questions - Is this cable from Jaycar suitable, 2 Core Screened Professional Microphone Cable - Sold per metre | Jaycar New Zealand

And what tool do I need to remove the terminals in CO158?

Thanks, James NZ

Originally Posted by James NZ

Couple more questions - Is this cable from Jaycar suitable, 2 Core Screened Professional Microphone Cable - Sold per metre | Jaycar New Zealand

And what tool do I need to remove the terminals in CO158?

Thanks, James NZ

That cable is what I used. It's fine. Removing the pins from C0158 is actually easy. You pull the grey cover thing from the front, and a simple pick will push down the tab, the terminal can then be pulled out from the back. You don't need special depinning tools for that one. The other end plug is a little harder, but you can just cut and splice that end, just keep it away from the starter. It's not a big deal, but mine used to start at the first touch of the key, but when I had the temporary wires there it need a couple of seconds. I assume that it's the energy from the starter interfering with the Hall effect of the CPS.
Good luck with it.