Diff installation queries.

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Originally Posted by Bohica

Clumsier than I? That I doubt. I have a mate who can make a 3d printed part to push the seal in.

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I tried that. I would suggest making it with the print set to solid. The honeycomb structure doesn’t seem to be strong enough. Or maybe I don’t know how to use my printer 😂

This is what the factory recommended tool looks like, and I suppose it would set the seal to the correct depth. I think at AUD$202, its a rather expensive chunk of plastic. I've not had anything to do with 3d printing but the attached picture might give you an idea, I guess you've probably seen what it looks like already. I would be interested in a 3d printed one if it provides a better view when installing the seal. 2nd pic shows the universal handle that is used as well.

cheers, James NZ

Quote:

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Originally Posted by James NZ

This is what the factory recommended tool looks like, and I suppose it would set the seal to the correct depth. I think at AUD$202, its a rather expensive chunk of plastic. I've not had anything to do with 3d printing but the attached picture might give you an idea, I guess you've probably seen what it looks like already. I would be interested in a 3d printed one if it provides a better view when installing the seal. 2nd pic shows the universal handle that is used as well.

cheers, James NZ

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Bingo Range Rover P38 LRT-54-012 Tool by SCKStef - Thingiverse
https://cdn.thingiverse.com/renders/...play_large.jpg


Attachment 190817

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Originally Posted by James NZ

This is what the factory recommended tool looks like, and I suppose it would set the seal to the correct depth.

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Seal depth sets itself in the housing in this case.

I’m reading this thread with interest as I recently buggered up a seal installation. I’m still unclear exactly how far the seal needs to be inserted.

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Originally Posted by biggin

I’m reading this thread with interest as I recently buggered up a seal installation. I’m still unclear exactly how far the seal needs to be inserted.

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Seal (FTC4822) will sit a couple of mill proud. It will bottom out on a shoulder so you can't insert it too far. You need to take a little care as the slinger ( looks a little like a speedy sleeve, you can remove it to change the CV boot ) can catch on the lip of the seal and fold it back. It's a bugger to see this if it happens. It's why I suggest using something to hold the axle as nearly central as you can when you push it in that last bit.

Attachment 190828

Made at work.
Now to build a Spigot removal tool or a large socket and washers

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Originally Posted by Tins

Seal (FTC4822) will sit a couple of mill proud. It will bottom out on a shoulder so you can't insert it too far. You need to take a little care as the slinger ( looks a little like a speedy sleeve, you can remove it to change the CV boot ) can catch on the lip of the seal and fold it back. It's a bugger to see this if it happens. It's why I suggest using something to hold the axle as nearly central as you can when you push it in that last bit.

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Cheers Tins, I’ve actually had the axle out a few times without a problem, then the one time I replace the seal……

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Originally Posted by biggin

Cheers Tins, I’ve actually had the axle out a few times without a problem, then the one time I replace the seal……

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Bugger.....

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Originally Posted by Bohica

Attachment 190828

Made at work.
Now to build a Spigot removal tool or a large socket and washers

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Good to see our tax dollars spent well. [tonguewink][bigrolf]