Thread: Discovery 2 Crank no start, only 6c permanent voltage supply dtc

Smarter folk than me are commenting here, but it seems to me that if the oily bits are going round and round like they should and you have power to the rest then you're left with the CPS. Sure, you've changed it but.... Just because it's new doesn't mean it's good. Also, there's the reluctor ring, but I dunno the failure rate of those.

Thank you for you reply, heaps of things... I am using an Autel Elite and Launch x-431 V+ even used a friends hawkeye,... Zero display on the Tacho or engine speed via Diagnostics. Not sure what to look at next.... about 600km from the nearest landie specializing workshop and not too inspired after chatting to some....
Also it has a Unichip fitted, which I neglected to mention before.

Thank you for the assist Tins, I have bought a second new CPS and my issue remains, any way to simulate the reluctor ring?

I can think of 3 things so far not commented on that could be easy checkups for you.

Weird that you get no spark, so (according to RAVE .. manual) there are spacers of the CKP(crank sensor), smaller for manual, larger for auto boxes. It also says there are two spacers, in the repairs section.
I haven't pulled a V8 apart(much) and have zero experience back there, but if any part of these spacers are not fitted, just in case some other mechanic has tried to repair the vehicle before.

So, important question is, what do you know of the history? have you just got it and want to get it going, have you had it all it's life and it suddenly died. Important info so that you know, someone else hasn't botched up a repair and used wrong parts .. or something. Seen this so many times, its the most frustrating part of getting an old landrover.

Anyhow, second possibility, I didn't see any mention of immobilisation. Immobilised, no way you will start engine. red light on dash can be configured to not flash, so don't just rely on this telltale sign. Again, this comes back to knowing history of the vehicle. I haven't connected my Autel to the V8 to see how accurate it's OBD data is compared to the nanocom, but I did used to use an obd dongle and Torque app, and generic obd can give 'different' codes compared to nanocom in some situations.
Autel could be better than a $10 generic dongle ... I don't know. But nanocom will tell you if vehicle is immobilised. If you're lucky enough to have the EKA code still with the vehicle, this could be an option to try just to be sure.

Anyhow, #3 possible issue not commented on is the cam position sensor. the reason for this possibility would be that, it won't show any code if it's a problem, as it only shows code if engine revs above 500rpm .. so you won't know if it's short or open until engine starts.
cam sensor less likely problem as if it's dead, the ECU just uses default values .. I guess maybe just rough running or something ... again, no experience just guess. But it can't hurt to check for voltage there too.

SF has already mentioned fuse 14 in the passenger fuse box, we assume you checked and double checked so power to coils. but have you tested coils and or leads too? Can you access spares to try out?

my feeling is most likely immobilised tho. if you can get friends Hawkeye again, and it can check this situation, would save you a lot of grief.