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Thread: Can i get some recommendations on crankshaft inspection and block

  1. #1
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    Can i get some recommendations on crankshaft inspection and block

    Hello AULRO,

    I am a newbie here. I am currently doing a oil sump gasket replacement and would like to ask the forum (or those who view this) for a recommendation on maintenance:

    I will add pictures to show you what my crankshaft currently looks like so that you can advise on how to clean and what parts to change:

    Concerns:
    1. I would like to know how to clean the crank, as there is sludge evident. I have cleaned the sump already.
    2. Timing chain - it too is covered with sludge, I would like to know how to inspect to determine whether I need to replace
    3. Pick up tube - I am going to replace this, now that I have the engine open.
    4. Is there a way to check if coolant is leaking? I did have some drops coming out when I removed the bolts holding the sump

    Thanks in advance for advice.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
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    Really I would "let sleeping dogs lie"
    You cannot tell the condition of the crank by looking at it. That to me looks like a quite old 3.5 so you cannot expect purity.
    What matters is the condition of the bearings and crank bearing faces and you cannot tell without pulling it apart.
    New oil and a couple of changes will clean out any sludge but I have to say it doesn't look too bad. If the oil light does not go on on idle be happy.
    Now the camshaft is most probably a different matter. At those miles the cam and lifters may be very worn and the timing chain may be slack. The timing chain is very short and unlikely to ever break.
    You should either consider a full rebuild at many dollars or just put a new sump gasket on and be thankful if it is relatively quiet with not too much tappet noise and no oil light when hot at idle..
    Thats my 2c worth.
    Regards PhilipA

  3. #3
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    unless you really know what you're doing leave it alone.

    Ive seen many v8s in far uglier condition inside still working well.

    you access the timing chain through the front cover and theres a tolerance on it, there isnt a reasonable way to inspect it from the underside other than slowly barring the engine over to check for bulged or failed links.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
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  4. #4
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    Thank you Philip

    Quote Originally Posted by PhilipA View Post
    Really I would "let sleeping dogs lie"
    You cannot tell the condition of the crank by looking at it. That to me looks like a quite old 3.5 so you cannot expect purity.
    What matters is the condition of the bearings and crank bearing faces and you cannot tell without pulling it apart.
    New oil and a couple of changes will clean out any sludge but I have to say it doesn't look too bad. If the oil light does not go on on idle be happy.
    Now the camshaft is most probably a different matter. At those miles the cam and lifters may be very worn and the timing chain may be slack. The timing chain is very short and unlikely to ever break.
    You should either consider a full rebuild at many dollars or just put a new sump gasket on and be thankful if it is relatively quiet with not too much tappet noise and no oil light when hot at idle..
    Thats my 2c worth.
    Regards PhilipA
    Hi Philip,
    Thank you for your post, all very good information. I will be thankful for now because I don't have tappet noise or an oil light at idle.

  5. #5
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    Thank you Dave

    Quote Originally Posted by Blknight.aus View Post
    unless you really know what you're doing leave it alone.

    Ive seen many v8s in far uglier condition inside still working well.

    you access the timing chain through the front cover and theres a tolerance on it, there isnt a reasonable way to inspect it from the underside other than slowly barring the engine over to check for bulged or failed links.
    Hello Dave,

    Thank you for the share of information. I do not know what I am doing when it comes to disasembling main bearings, however I have the desire to learn. Though this scenario will not be the time I learn.
    Could you let me know the process of barring the engine to check for the chain links?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Benny Disco View Post
    Hello Dave,

    Thank you for the share of information. I do not know what I am doing when it comes to disasembling main bearings, however I have the desire to learn. Though this scenario will not be the time I learn.
    Could you let me know the process of barring the engine to check for the chain links?


    Easy,


    Using a large socket or bar on the main nut that holds in the front pully on the crank turn the engine over very slowly in the direction of normal rotation while you inspect the links.

    you can also use a prybar or similar on the teeth of the ring gear on the fly wheel to do the same thing.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

  7. #7
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    Removing the spark plugs will make it easier.
    While you are there, a main indicator of engine health is the compression in the cylinders. Maybe talk to a mechanic about a compression test. Does it burn much oil? Is there smoke from the exhaust? If not do not worry but if it does or if it uses coolant some work could be called for.
    Regards PhilipA

  8. #8
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    a very rough compression test can be achieved by having the engine right side up and turning it over with a ratchet, you should feel 8 very even resistances to rotation as the pistons go into compression.

    as you have it out and Im doing some at home work next week if you want to load it in the back of something and get it looked at I'll make a window in the evening for you.

    Im down to the penisular again on friday/sat, if you're en route on the way there or back I can make a short detour.

    drop me a pm.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

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