Thread: Clutch 'bite point' - air issue or...?

I think the first thing I would do is climb under the dash and check for fluid leaking out of the rubber boot on the M/Cyl. Don't just assume, if it's dry. Pop the boot off a bit because fluid can build up in there before it becomes obvious.
Of course, that's not the only thing that goes wrong with the cylinders but it is common, not only on LR. You could try removing the outlet pipe from the M/C and putting your finger over the port and have someone gently push the pedal. If it's firm then...
New cyls are about $200 for a good one or $90 for a russian roulette one.

I also had clutch issues last year after purchasing a 2004, Td5, manual.... it hadn't been used properly for 6 years and when I looked at the clutch fluid it was black!

I changed master and slave cylinders then bleed several times to get it operate properly. Followed a tip from on here somewhere about leaving the pedal compressed (by a handy length of wood and the drivers seat) overnight after bleeding. Can't find that thread now....

Has been fine since but yes bite point is still low especially compared to to Td5 Defender's which is close to to the top of the travel.

Keep at it!

Cheers Discofender

Non LR, but might help.

Ford Courier 4x4 manual ute, put a new slave cylinder in but had no pedal.

Couldn't get it to bleed with the tube in the bottle method, had no available assistance.

Plenty of fluid and no bubbles going into the bottle so I figured the air was just in the slave.

Closed the valve, pushed the clutch to the floor and propped it there with a block of wood.

Got back underneath and undid the two bolts holding the slave to the bell housing and withdrew it.

Pushed the rod into the slave while cracking the valve and out came the air. Tightened the valve and reinstalled. All good, it was so simple.

The only reason the previous 7yo slave had failed was because the rubber boot (external to the bell housing on this thing) had failed due to oil dripping onto it from a leaking RC gasket and it got contaminated by road grit.

DL

Originally Posted by Discofender

leaving the pedal compressed (by a handy length of wood and the drivers seat) overnight after bleeding. Can't find that thread now....

Has been fine since but yes bite point is still low especially compared to to Td5 Defender's which is close to to the top of the travel.

Probably needs a new clutch

Originally Posted by Tins

You could try removing the outlet pipe from the M/C and putting your finger over the port and have someone gently push the pedal. If it's firm then...

Bloody strong fingers there, but yep, sounds like master cylinder.