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Thread: Guinea pig?

  1. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    ..... The other thing is that jubilee style clamps can easily be over or under tightened. Only experience can tell, and people have different approaches.
    And that was really my point.
    Spring clips just make it quicker and easier to install assemblies that require clamps. Whether that equates to unit cost of the clamp, or the time taken to install the clamps that's a cost saving.

    But I see so many comments that springs clips have constant tension, and thus are better for whatever questionable engineering reason .. never seen any tests, or engineering papers showing evidence for that reasoning.

    And .. yet, they are so much better, but for some reason the less capable jubilee/worm/hose tearing constant tension clamps are used on the turbo hoses?
    This makes no sense, and I've never heard anyone switch from jubilee clamps to spring clamps for the turbo hoses to stop them popping off(good luck trying).

    My comment was only that the reason spring clamps exist is that it's cheaper for the manufacturer to use them on the assembly line, because that are in effect a 'no brainer' part(relative to a worm drive clamp).
    The assembler/mechanic doesn't have to get the tension 'just right', with the spring clamp too
    Also the manufacturer doesn't have to have special tools like auto-preset tensioning tools so that workers don't get install wrong(such tools will also need calibrating)... etc.

    But where the added cost of a worm drive clamp is required, they have to accept the additional cost of it.

    I think of them like the modern plastic/aluminium radiator. For nearly 100 years brass/copper combos were used to great effect and usually lasted a very long time ... etc. But suddenly manufacturers started to switch to plastic crimped alloy core units.
    Are these better because they suddenly became the default?
    Copper rads are heavier, costlier and probably prone to some other issue or whatever, so manufacturers saved tons of money with the switch.

    PF may or may not be the most scientific youtuber out there, but the purpose of that link was to show that three clamps failed with low scores in his test, the anomaly being that the clamp size was too large for the hose, but the constant tension clamps still did so much better in that marginal situation than the spring clamp.

    Side note: On my D2a, which I got RWC for last Nov ... I had this anomaly type situation. The waterpump was showing leaking, so being the prudent good little vegiemite that I am, before I started working to fix, I bought the water pump and associated other bits I thought I needed. I got the o-ring with the mindset that last time that damned thing was so hard to do with everything around it, least stressful approach was to use the replace the o-ring method, i.e take everything off.

    Idiot! .. I should have dismantled first and save myself the $s(no drama, it's a td5! .. waterpump will need doing at some point )
    I didn't see the drip/trail trail of dry coolant coming from higher up above at the rear hose!, so when time came to disassemble, then I noticed it properly .. ah .. damned stupid hose clamp wonky or something.
    Drained coolant fitted a clamp but then saw its coming from higher again at the sensor outlet port. AHHH!! stupid clamps(or so I thought), replaced with worm drive and then under pressure didn't leak.
    All together again, and then I hit me, that hose went on way too easy, as in it felt slippery slidey, but hoses not loosey goosey .. was old, but not 20+ years of hard use type old.
    Took it off again, and then poked about and there was this slippery buildup on the (sensor) outlet port. Kind of waxy or something. Never seen this ever. I seen crusty residue and rust and pitting, but not this waxy kind of stuff. Clipped a bit away and it flaked off.

    So the outlet port has this waxy goop I want to clean, but had to remove it to clean all the way around, so that means AC compressor off. And that where I found the 'waterpump leak' all that was was the build up of coolant in the webbing under the AC and then sometimes leaking and sometimes not. Took some time to fully clean this way greasy stuff off, and no idea what it was other than the same (pink)colour of the coolant the previous owner(s) used .. consistency of soap kind'a thing.
    Once all cleaned and same thing with the rear waterpump hose too(had it too). no other hose port had it tho.
    Anyway, the worm clamp did stop it leaking, and only got in deeper and fixed properly due to curiosity. Once cleaned, I'm sure the std clamps would have sealed up right, but I have my alternate preference.
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  2. #22
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    Arthur, mixing different types of coolant can create a jelly like substance. Possibly a previous owner changed coolant types and didn't flush fully.
    If you don't like trucks, stop buying stuff.
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  3. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    And that was really my point.
    Spring clips just make it quicker and easier to install assemblies that require clamps. Whether that equates to unit cost of the clamp, or the time taken to install the clamps that's a cost saving.






    I think of them like the modern plastic/aluminium radiator. For nearly 100 years brass/copper combos were used to great effect and usually lasted a very long time ... etc. But suddenly manufacturers started to switch to plastic crimped alloy core units.
    Are these better because they suddenly became the default?
    Copper rads are heavier, costlier and probably prone to some other issue or whatever, so manufacturers saved tons of money with the switch.

    PF may or may not be the most scientific youtuber out there, but the purpose of that link was to show that three clamps failed with low scores in his test, the anomaly being that the clamp size was too large for the hose, but the constant tension clamps still did so much better in that marginal situation than the spring clamp.



    .
    OK, it all makes sense, Arthur. But 15 psi, or whatever that is in Newspeak, ain't much. If the rad hoses pop off you probably have a head gasket sized fish to fry. Cost of course is a big issue. The difference may be 5¢ a unit, but multiply that by the number of clamps per vehicle times the number of vehicles, well you get where I'm going. But the factory probably had robots to tighten, or at least torque limited power tools. The gorilla at ultratune does not. And the cars are up to 25 years old, and people will have changed the clamps at some point, and the quality of Jungle Store clamps is, well, about as good as their fuses and crimp connectors.

    The radiator thing is totally different. For decades, manufacturers have had to deal with more and more onerous regs regarding emissions and consumption. Alloy rads were introduced to cut costs, sure, ( The price of copper is eyewatering ) but the main reasons were weight, as that effects consumption, and thermal transfer. Alloy can be made thinner, and the plastic tanks are also lighter, but the main thing is fast warm up, vital to meet emissions goals. Same reason we're lumbered with that expensive thermostat, I guess.

    You mention the turbo hose clamps... Funny, but they are the only ones that look like cutting through the hoses, and I have owned my car for 16 years and this is the first time I've changed the hoses. slack, I know. It's possible the shop that did the HG under warranty changed them, but that was, well, 16 years ago, as it blew in the first month of my ownership ( stupid plastic dowells, and an auspicious start to my LR ownership..... ).

    But hey, whatever works. I like the spring clamps, but as mentioned before, I hate the tool I have to open them. $60 of bloody minded garbage. Sure, it does the job, but amid much swearing. I wonder if Milwaukee make one...., no, on second thoughts, I couldn't afford it if they did.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  4. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    ..... I like the spring clamps, but as mentioned before, I hate the tool I have to open them. $60 of bloody minded garbage. Sure, it does the job, but amid much swearing. I wonder if Milwaukee make one...., no, on second thoughts, I couldn't afford it if they did.
    What tool U using.

    I've gotten over the hate of spring clamps since I bought the flexi/remote contraption(off ebay for less than $20). I think LRTime have used it too to get to the hard to get at clamps, where the plier like tool can't get too.

    Is it a ratcheting clickety type that hold the clamp open while you maneuver it around?
    Arthur.

    All these discos are giving me a heart attack!

    '99 D1 300Tdi Auto ( now sold :( )
    '03 D2 Td5 Auto
    '03 D2a Td5 Auto

  5. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Is it a ratcheting clickety type that hold the clamp open while you maneuver it around?
    Yes, but you need three hands to use it... It works.....

    One thing though, due to the slight increase in wall thickness of the new hoses it is very difficult to open the smaller clamps up enough to get them over the barbs, bearing in mind that the surgery has compromised me a little
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  6. #26
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    I said that it’s been a long time since I fell for a scam. Well. I took a risk on another one. It was really sus, but for $50 I figured an iPhone 16 was worth the risk. Hmm, I got a dodgy looking email from the Jungle company, err, allegedly. Ok, probably a scam. But now I have a tracking number with China Post and my package is at the airport in China. If it actually arrives I’ll let you know what’s in it. I’m tipping it won’t be an iPhone.
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  7. #27
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    I used to be from the school that would ditch the spring loaded clamps. I did this mainly for ease of refitting and then making the job easier next time.

    I have now switched to the spring clamps, even though they are a pain in the bottom for difficult ones.

    My reason for changing was this. After a lot of research due to constant tension.

    Mind you, if not for this ripper little tool I have, I might still be using worm drives.

    It would be 13 years since I changed and I have never had a leak.

    In a previous life when cars were simpler, I used to swing the spanners for a living. When a car was in for a service I would run a screw driver over all the hose clamps
    and not uncommon to get a quarter turn on the clamp.

    I would some times get a complaint from customer that they were loosing coolant. Pressure test the system and often it was a leaking hose clamp

    I will post a picture of the tool at a later date. It is in the back of my car which has the Tvan attached for an early morning departure.
    Dave.

    I was asked " Is it ignorance or apathy?" I replied "I don't know and I don't care."


    1983 RR gone (wish I kept it)
    1996 TDI ES.
    2003 TD5 HSE
    1987 Isuzu County

  8. #28
    BradC is online now Super Moderator
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    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Each to their own, but I've never seen testing to confirm this proposition.

    And if they ever start using spring clamps to locate and seal hydraulic and/or pneumatic hose fittings, then I'll switch to same line of thinking for coolant hoses too.
    And the reality is that the only reason manufacturers switched to spring clamps is cost. Quicker to fit them, and don't need a specialist tool to get the tension spot on.
    They certainly do not clamp better.
    Yet my local hydraulic supplier recommends them for cooling systems. For hydraulic they will only warrant crimps. They don't recommend worm drives for pretty much anything other than "one size fits all, not critical and if it breaks you get to keep both pieces".

    Quote Originally Posted by AK83 View Post
    Whereas I think he's a bit of a twonk with no concept of scientific method. The video you linked is irrelevant (This Chinese hose clamp held 750 PSI and weighed 52 grams) when it's designed to be on a cooling system with a 16psi relief valve. No "we tested this through 500 thermal cycles to 7.5psi" which is what a vehicle actually experiences. What is the point of testing to breaking point when you're never going to get close to it?. For pneumatic fittings, I use oetiker clamps. Same spring, 360 degree clamping force and no need for double clamps. Hydraulic fittings I use crimps and pay someone who has the right tools and experience to do them correctly. I do use (double) worm drives on the seacocks in the boat, but then they kinda swing between 19-21C over the year.

    One of the first comments on that youtube video :
    Great video but you missed one very important test. Temperature. This is why the constant tension clamps reign supreme in many applications, due their ability to adjust to changes in temperature like heater hoses that with temps that vary widely & constant tension clamps adjust on their own always keeping constant tension. For cold, static applications your tests are fine but you are missing a big reason every auto manufacturer switched to the more expensive but better constant tension style clamp.
    My D3 uses a worm drive clamp on the air intake hose and boost hoses. My wifes VW uses spring clamps. Who's right? You do you.
    MY08 D3 - The Antichrist - "Permagrimace". Turn the key and play the "will it get me home again" lottery.

  9. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tins View Post
    I said that it’s been a long time since I fell for a scam. Well. I took a risk on another one. It was really sus, but for $50 I figured an iPhone 16 was worth the risk. Hmm, I got a dodgy looking email from the Jungle company, err, allegedly. Ok, probably a scam. But now I have a tracking number with China Post and my package is at the airport in China. If it actually arrives I’ll let you know what’s in it. I’m tipping it won’t be an iPhone.
    Screenshot 2025-11-16 at 4.07.26?pm.jpg
    Pretty elaborate scam...
    ​JayTee

    Nullus Anxietus

    Cancer is gender blind.

    2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
    1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
    1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
    OKApotamus #74
    Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.

  10. #30
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    Not too much scamming on Aliexpress, only things like the stupid cheap Milwaukee tools ($25 hammer drills etc) but you do get what you pay for.. I've purchased a fair bit off there and quite a bit of Landy type parts. I've fitted rear tail light guards, lower tail lights (D2a) along with a few fittings etc, currently I have in transit some fuel pumps for the auxiliary tanks I'm fitting. I've found Aliex no worse than Ebay for scam/knock off stuff.

    cheers

    Redd
    2003 D2a "The Red Rig" TD5 auto, (number 1 son is now the operator)
    2003 D2a "White Weapon" TD5, auto, 17" BFG's and more to follow
    Almost qualified as a Land Rover operator

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