Thread: M and S lights, turns over but no start

Originally Posted by Tins

......
Oh, and don't be tempted by some of the others out there that claim to work with Land Rovers. Sure, they can do some things, but it's important to understand that the TD5, while it has a OBDII style plug, it is NOT OBDII compliant......

I dunno what the communication protocol is, but my mid-high end Autel 906 can communicate with the TD5 in some respects.

Haven't fully tested it, and it does give some live tests and live data recording type stuff. I suppose it would as it may be related to BCU rather than ECU, and you'd expect some commonality between V8 BCUs and TD5 BCUs.

But the Autel was twice the price of the nanocom(I needed it for my Puegeots) and I wouldn't consider a cheaper one(yet) as an alternative to a nanocom for a TD5.

If I ever have any TD5 specific issues, I'm going to try to use the Autel and nanocom on it and compare their respective outputs.

Only things I have tested with the Autel is ABS and key programming. ABS does most, if not all, of the nanocom functions that I can find(bleed, tests, and live data) and both nanocom and Autel both had a lot of difficulty getting the key I tried to program for the D2a to stick.
They both stated that the key was synced, but the key just wouldn't work. Original key was crappy as hell, and only one, so I wanted the secutrity of having a spare.

I tried briefly on the D2 to program another key too, and again, both nanocom and Autel both gave the same grief, and I didn't have the 30mins of patience again to got through that. Brother still has his spare on that one, so no rush.

Originally Posted by AK83

I dunno what the communication protocol is, but my mid-high end Autel 906 can communicate with the TD5 in some respects.

Haven't fully tested it, and it does give some live tests and live data recording type stuff. I suppose it would as it may be related to BCU rather than ECU, and you'd expect some commonality between V8 BCUs and TD5 BCUs.

But the Autel was twice the price of the nanocom(I needed it for my Puegeots) and I wouldn't consider a cheaper one(yet) as an alternative to a nanocom for a TD5.

If I ever have any TD5 specific issues, I'm going to try to use the Autel and nanocom on it and compare their respective outputs.

Only things I have tested with the Autel is ABS and key programming. ABS does most, if not all, of the nanocom functions that I can find(bleed, tests, and live data) and both nanocom and Autel both had a lot of difficulty getting the key I tried to program for the D2a to stick.
They both stated that the key was synced, but the key just wouldn't work. Original key was crappy as hell, and only one, so I wanted the secutrity of having a spare.

I tried briefly on the D2 to program another key too, and again, both nanocom and Autel both gave the same grief, and I didn't have the 30mins of patience again to got through that. Brother still has his spare on that one, so no rush.

The Autel stuff is fine. My local has one, but for a busy shop, $13K, and licensing of manufactures tech resources. And It won't work with a TD5 D2. Sure, does a few things, but we need to remember that the D2 and P38 were in some sense orphans. P38 security systems spring to mind. Shop keeps a Nanocom...

Coding a key on a Nano is a snap. It's navigating the menus, and remembering that you haven't actually finished when you think you have that's the issue. There is one last step that most, me included, miss , until you have done it a few times, and recently. Which reminds me, I need to check mine. The car does not respond to it anymore, and yet the RF test detects it. Car is currently immobilised , and the sequence of events leading up to this could have triggered it to forget the key. Hope so, cos that would be the easiest fix.... So, it won't have...

Originally Posted by Adarewyr

water has been getting into the dash on the driver's side

As mentioned, check the inside fusebox, you'll have to remove it

Originally Posted by Adarewyr

river crossing yesterday

If your D2 is an earlier (pre 2002 my) model, someone may have removed the lid on the ECU and not sealed it properly, so maybe it's too late, but pull the lid and check for water ingress. Don't forget to reseal properly, and, also as mentioned, a replacement ECU won't allow it to start without a relearn of the security code.

Originally Posted by Tins

Car is currently immobilised , and the sequence of events leading up to this could have triggered it to forget the key. Hope so, cos that would be the easiest fix.... So, it won't have...

EKA should wake it up

Originally Posted by discorevy

EKA should wake it up

Using the correct procedure helps.....

I've checked all the fuses but I will check again, we had a big storm Saturday and Sunday morning was when it stopped starting. Will putting a new ECU and then putting the old one back cause me any issues? I know you guys have said it won't help but the guy I got it off reckoned it would just work right away, they're here now so want to try it just to rule it out but obviously don't want to do anything to make it worse

Will recheck fuses now, and multi meter the battery to make sure it's fine although it's turning over perfectly, after fuses and the battery I guess I'll get to shell out for a new nanocom! If anyone else is in the South of NZ and needs one I'll be the guy for it....

Originally Posted by Adarewyr

I've checked all the fuses but I will check again, we had a big storm Saturday and Sunday morning was when it stopped starting. Will putting a new ECU and then putting the old one back cause me any issues? I know you guys have said it won't help but the guy I got it off reckoned it would just work right away, they're here now so want to try it just to rule it out but obviously don't want to do anything to make it worse

Will recheck fuses now, and multi meter the battery to make sure it's fine although it's turning over perfectly, after fuses and the battery I guess I'll get to shell out for a new nanocom! If anyone else is in the South of NZ and needs one I'll be the guy for it....

I think the only harm you could do would be to the ECU itself, but I can't see why.

New ECU changed nothing at all, rechecked fuses and all look okay so I will ask around and see if someone close by has a nanocom before I purchase one

Also tried the throttle pedal 5-6 times thing with no luck, dash is a red light on a temp gauge at half, fuel on full with a check engine light that flashes on and off

And this is a known good ECU? Hmm. I repeat my suggestion of the fusebox. After that I'll hand over to the blokes that do this for a living.