Thread: EKA Grrrr

Originally Posted by Tins

My silly car has immobilised itself. Dunno why, it drove yesterday, sulking today. It also refuses to respond to the plib even though the RF test shows a response. Ok, try the EKA. Nope. Ok, maybe I am wrong in my technique. So I look it up. Search engines now all use AI to compile results. So, I now have maybe three different approaches to try, none of which work. The two that seem familiar set out the same steps, only they switch unlock to lock. I wonder if they are different depending on RHD vs LHD. Going to try again when smoke stops coming out of my ears.

Oh yeah, I never hear the horn beep. I know it works because yesterday it started sounding when I put the car in neutral. First time I have ever heard the thing in 16 years.

OK, so ignore what I just wrote in the other thread, I've never had one alarm by moving into neutral, but then, I don't think I've experienced one that seems to have as many problems in the one car.

Originally Posted by discorevy

OK, so ignore what I just wrote in the other thread, I've never had one alarm by moving into neutral, but then, I don't think I've experienced one that seems to have as many problems in the one car.

Beginning to think I need to clean the fusebox again

But no, I had one last try with the EKA, using one of the more plausible procedures. The horn still did not sound, but the indicators flashed, which I took to be a good sign... LED went out, car started instantly, as usual. Horn still sounds in neutral, and the M&S flashed, but I cleared the position indicator fault... We'll see if it comes back. Car is idling at present to burp the cooling system. Definitely taking the Nanocom with me. As Karl Malden used to say, don't leave home without it.

A clue though. I replaced the awful patched up CPS wiring, using shielded double core. I think I got my wires crossed, as it started, ran like crap, and then wouldn't start. Nano reported, in the auto trans fault section, a topside switch issue. I reversed the wires and that went away, but I'm wondering how sullen the ECU can get if you muck around. I didn't see how reversing the wires on what is essentially a hall effect sensor would upset it so much.

Err, and maybe check the wiring to the diagnostics plug... Mine has the plastic bit it clips to broken. Guess it doesn't like being kicked around. Out with the 3D printer, I guess.

Originally Posted by Tins

Beginning to think I need to clean the fusebox again

Yes

Originally Posted by Tins

A clue though. I replaced the awful patched up CPS wiring, using shielded double core. I think I got my wires crossed, as it started, ran like crap, and then wouldn't start. Nano reported, in the auto trans fault section, a topside switch issue. I reversed the wires and that went away, but I'm wondering how sullen the ECU can get if you muck around. I didn't see how reversing the wires on what is essentially a hall effect sensor would upset it so much.

I can't see how either, but the few times I've been called by workshops when it "won't start after we did a clutch / changed the transmission" I've advised to make sure they re-solder the wires in the same way, just in case.

Strangely enough, I have Justin Coopers old Boss's D2 here at the moment for a service, and the only thing that caused him any issues in the 25 year lifespan of it, was when the windscreen leaked last winter due to a dodgy fitment and I had to dry out the IDM.