Use a bit of easy start spray in the intake, the engine will start and run a few seconds on that and watch the rpm while it's running...can you see normal rpm then? did i understand well that you tried with other ECU too with the same result
So….. BCU change fixed most of the issues around the security system, including the weird horn sounding in neutral. I resoldered the button on the key. I haven’t been able to get my spare key enrolled to the BCU yet, but that’s probably me.
But… the Nanocom reported zero rpm when cranking. I tried the space CPS and nothing. I got a new CPS and still nothing. I have tested continuity of the wiring, right down to the soldered joints on the pcb inside the ECU. Zip. All this was done between the icy showers we’ve had. I’m not sure where to go next. I had to return the borrowed ECUs but I guess I’ll need to get them again because I don’t know what else it could be. I didn’t see any dry joints inside the ECU. The MIL illuminates during start up checks so I’m assuming that the ECU is receiving power?
D1 is looking better and better.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
Use a bit of easy start spray in the intake, the engine will start and run a few seconds on that and watch the rpm while it's running...can you see normal rpm then? did i understand well that you tried with other ECU too with the same result
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
I didn’t check the rpm on the other ECU. At the time I was thinking incorrectly that all the faults were connected and the other one did not change the recorded faults. I’ve had a sort of tunnel vision with this one, possibly because of the broken CPS. But now, all three of them test ok using a mm and passing an iron object past the magnet ? core.
I will try the spray. Of course it will run on that stuff and I will see. I have an extension OBD cord so I can watch the nano.
After that I’ll just get back to basics and start from scratch. Currently I’m blinded by the various rabbit holes.
I hate buses. ?
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
If you go to TD5 instruments on the Nanocom, of it connects and displays ANYTHING the ECU is getting power and working to some degree at least.
If the ECU isn't working at all, you will get an error on the Nanocom, and it won't display any valid results.
Did I mention I hate buses? But walking home from the doctor I have been thinking about the rabbit hole thing and I remembered an oddly. With the Nanocom plugged in and going through the menu I have noticed on a number of occasions that the cluster would go dead. Only the low fuel light stays working. When this happens the whole car becomes dead, and I think I hear a relay click, but my ears left home 20 years ago.
As I understand it, the cluster is a part of the whole system I am dealing with. Ok, when it comes back the car still won’t start. I’m now wondering if the cluster is faulty or perhaps the diagnostic plug is damaged.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
When I had the fusebox out it was damp but not corroded so I put it back. But, could it be the IDM after all? I have a spare, is it plug and play?
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Cancer is gender blind.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
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