Accessing diaphragm on fuel pressure regulator on d2 td5

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Blknight.aus

you need the 100mm 1.2mm (might be 1.8)tipped 90 degree bent nosed circlip pliers If you are lucky the clip is in a position you can get onto it with the pliers and it can be done from underneath or coming up from alongside. ITs easier to do if you drop the transmission mounts out and carefully let it sit down but if the circlip is in the wrong spot you'll need to work it around or you'll need to remove the FPR as whole to get at it.

Good luck

---

Hi Dave, long time no chat.
Yeah, I spent about 2 hours looking at this from all angles and while I could see one of the circlip holes, I worked out that the other one was definitely at the wrong angle. Definitely did not have the right tool at those angles.
So it was off with the FPR from above, cursing water pipes, fuel cooler, etc etc along the way.
Got it off and pried off the diaphragm. Sucked on the internal pipe and i could hear air coming through from inside.
So took the MSA from the other FPR. That one held a vacumn, no diesel down the throat either?
Must be an old FPR version, no feedpipe on it to go to the front of the engine.
Anyway it worked and got it all back together and running in 2 hours.
I should have bit the bullet, would have had it finished by midday rather than 4:30pm!
That first red coopers didn't even touch the sides!

Now onto why it is really hard to start at first like its starving and revs are erratic.... Hmmmmm tomorrow ?


Cheers all.

Hi Dave, long time no chat.
Yeah, I spent about 2 hours looking at this from all angles and while I could see one of the circlip holes, I worked out that the other one was definitely at the wrong angle. Definitely did not have the right tool at those angles.
So it was off with the FPR from above, cursing water pipes, fuel cooler, etc etc along the way.
Got it off and pried off the diaphragm. Sucked on the internal pipe and i could hear air coming through from inside.
So took the MSA from the other FPR. That one held a vacumn, no diesel down the throat either?
Must be an old FPR version, no feedpipe on it to go to the front of the engine.
Anyway it worked and got it all back together and running in 2 hours.
I should have bit the bullet, would have had it finished by midday rather than 4:30pm!
That first red coopers didn't even touch the sides!

Now onto why it is really hard to start at first like its starving and revs are erratic.... Hmmmmm tomorrow ?


Cheers all.

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WTF123

Must be an old FPR version, no feedpipe on it to go to the front of the engine.

---

You have a 10P motor so no feedpipe to front of engine.

You can still use a FPR housing with feedpipe (later 15P motor), just take off the feedpipe and block the port with a metric sump plug.

Attachment 195744 Here's one I prepared earlier [bigsmile]

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by WTF123

Hi Dave, long time no chat.
Yeah, I spent about 2 hours looking at this from all angles and while I could see one of the circlip holes, I worked out that the other one was definitely at the wrong angle. Definitely did not have the right tool at those angles.
So it was off with the FPR from above, cursing water pipes, fuel cooler, etc etc along the way.
Got it off and pried off the diaphragm. Sucked on the internal pipe and i could hear air coming through from inside.
So took the MSA from the other FPR. That one held a vacumn, no diesel down the throat either?
Must be an old FPR version, no feedpipe on it to go to the front of the engine.
Anyway it worked and got it all back together and running in 2 hours.
I should have bit the bullet, would have had it finished by midday rather than 4:30pm!
That first red coopers didn't even touch the sides!

Now onto why it is really hard to start at first like its starving and revs are erratic.... Hmmmmm tomorrow ?


Cheers all.

---

thats usually down to either the air bleed in the pump in the tank or the checkvalve that stops it from draining out.

IF it never really settles down unless you have a near full tank of fuel its the air bleed,
if you do a full prime and it then starts and runs happily its the checkvalve. your fuel pump will never sound like it hits full pressure and your top end high load performance might be suffering as well
Also rans are the fuel pump not making enough flow and low power to the pump from a bad elec connection.