Forgot to mention you are better off not stuffing around and putting a new radiator in a TD5 because if you over heat it ( plenty of threads on this ) big $$$.
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Forgot to mention you are better off not stuffing around and putting a new radiator in a TD5 because if you over heat it ( plenty of threads on this ) big $$$.
ak,
dpl is davies performance landys, i am glad i got it into them as along with fixing a sump leak the above have been found. just suprised by the quotes given?. also being a one car family taking the rad out myself is not possible unless i get a new one and have a barbie and rad fitting arvo! :D
this gives me the knowledge of what needs doing and can no prioritise along with needing new tyres and rego due soon time to start saving.... :cool:
cheers
yorkie
You don't "just" replace a D2 TD5 radiator. They take a fair bit of time to get out, and then again to get in. I learnt that at Cape York.
The thing with the TD5 is that they are vulnerable if overheated. I reckon that in reality, this is the things that would kill them the most. I'm pretty sure that I did some calculations a while ago that worked out that with coolant mixed properly and no pressure in the coolant system that the temps will be marginal with respect to boiling the coolant at the TD5's hottest. Likewise roughly if there is pressure, but with plain water in the radiator.
I think this is your biggest worry.
The other was the exhaust manifold as you don't want to do any further damage to the head or whatever. They're also expensive if damaged.
The other stuff isn't as critical as they won't cause an accident and they wont damage expensive bits unless the transfer goes dry.
hi simon,
thanks the advice and i know all too well about what cooling system probs can do from my old toyota surf you saw a few years back.
the rad only has a slight leak and some stop leak stuff was put in it by bruce so will keep an eye on it for the time being.
cheers
liam
There is a thread elsewhere on the forum about stud removal by some travelling chappie in Sydney.
Also look up the thread on TD5 exhaust manifold modifcation to reduce this stud breakage problem.
Ahh, here we are: http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery/...uds-again.html
Same as a lot of pevious replies, My flex joint was not leeking but the outer mesh had split causing a ratle drone so I obtained some stainless wire mesh and wraped it around the old mesh and fitted 3 stainless hose clamps one each end and one in the middle with the screws to the top so as not to hook on anything off road this has gone for 100000 km. Cost $15.00 10 min work.
Rover Service Centre said it was fine and good idea as the rest of the exhaust is ok.
Cheers Allan.
I would do the Radiator and intercooler first, if you do it yourself it will be 1/2 what you were quoted.Quote:
Originally Posted by YORKIE
Then Exhaust, you can get a complete 3" mandrel bend exhaust for $850 fitted.
Fixing the transfer case leaks shouldn't be more than $500 IMHO, having had mine done recently.
As for the studs, $400 max including the studs and shaving of the manifold.
Baz.