Hmmm, on the Aus v US.
Tyres from tyre rack, 4 days, $50- ea freight.
Same from Bridgestone, 7-10 days (melb/Syd) +$25- each.
Totalper tyre incl freight 28% less than Bridgestone cost not incl freight
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Hmmm, on the Aus v US.
Tyres from tyre rack, 4 days, $50- ea freight.
Same from Bridgestone, 7-10 days (melb/Syd) +$25- each.
Totalper tyre incl freight 28% less than Bridgestone cost not incl freight
Did everyone else except me know there are 3 grease points on a serviceable DC joint?
Found out today there's another one that greases the centre ball & it requires a needle attachment for the grease gun to get to it.
I thought that one was for the slip joint. Do explain!!Quote:
Originally Posted by Discobaker
Speaking to a fella about Tom Woods prop shafts, they have two standard nipples, one forward, one back & then in the centre there's a "needle" grease point to service the ball in the centre too. Some have produced greasable DC joints but failed to add the grease point for the centre ball. I'm writing this as I sit on the side of the road waiting for a tow as my DC has failed!!!!!!
Stopped before it smashed my gearbox, telltale vibration that got consistently worse until I pulled the pin & pulled over. I don't have the coin for a new gearbox too!!!
Yes... Thats one of the selling points..... Plus the bright orange needle grease attachment gave me a subtle reminder!Quote:
Originally Posted by Discobaker
James
Replaced the UJs on my double carden joint today.
Vehicle is a D2a, TD5 Auto, 147,000km on the clock. It has "standard height" replacement Kings springs, installed about 20,000km ago. Has had little off road use in its life unfortunately (owned it since new).
The vehicle developed a fine vibration in the last week or so, which started to get really noticable late last week. The vibration would be at 50-60km/h, most noticable on over-run throttle. It would still vibrate if I slipped the transfer into neutral so I knew it was prop shafts/diff, wheels etc.
The carden joint had no play when I wriggled it when still installed and showed no signs of distress externally.
When I removed it from the vehicle though it definately had restricted movement in one plane.
Today I replaced the two UJs with new units, the centre bearing appeared fine so I repacked it and reinstalled it. Only one UJ bearing cap had completely dried out and broken down, the grease had dried to a black powder and the inner bearing surface lost all of its hard facing surface but all of the needle rollers were still there.
The UJs were Matsuba 2275-B (344), about $66 total from my local bearing shop.
I now have two more greasable UJs to keep happy with a bit of grease periodically.
Cheers,
Chris
So this "perfect" 2nd hand prop shaft turns up today & it's in worse condition than the one I'm replacing!!!
Bloody Hell!
Tom Woods shaft ordered, pro comp in melb, thankyou, bye bye $600+ courier.
Gonna rebuild the centre ball in my original one & try & get some funds back that way. Money pit getting extremely shallow & the GLW's patience is in just as much trouble.
With what I've read on here about Tom Woods shafts, greasable at a total of 5 points along the shaft, I'm tipping I won't need to keep a spare.
PM if anyone is interested & I'll get it done ASAP.
Cheers guys
I've removed all the circlips & the tutorial I found calls for a specific uni tool to push the pins out to remove, did you have this when you rebuilt yours or is there another option/procedure you'd be happy to fill me in with?Quote:
Originally Posted by cjc_td5
Cheers
Mat
So I've just replaced with a Tom Woods drive shaft, the bloody crickets are still there!!! Alot quieter but still there. What else could it be? Almost sounds like a diff whine. I'll drop the oil in the diffs & see how that goes. front output bearing on the TC?
Cheers guys
Seems obvious but could it be the rear?