The GKN unis are a HD item, equivalent in strength to a 1310 Spicer in a 1300 Spicer sized uni.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andych
Your call.
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The GKN unis are a HD item, equivalent in strength to a 1310 Spicer in a 1300 Spicer sized uni.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andych
Your call.
If my Rover was lifted and did lots of Off road stuff I would probably go the TW route rather than just fitting GKN uni's but at present mine is on-road only and stock... the root cause of my failure was the AC drain (now fixed) as the other uni's have no signs of wear at all and I could see water dripping directly onto that joint when I first checked it after hearing the chirp.Quote:
Originally Posted by rick130
All 3 will be replaced for now and I will consider the TW option if and when it becomes appropriate.
I do appreciate the info though...
Quote:
Originally Posted by Andych
All I'm saying is that the OE/GKN unis are a different spec to an off the shelf 1300 uni (Hardy Spicer K5 L4R)
The HS K5 A747 is the same uni as the GKN HD one. There's pics somewhere on the forum of the differences, possibly in this thread.
The TW shaft is an excellent and cost effective long term fix and uses 1310 Spicer unis. Have one on my Defender.
I know that I am going against the quorum here but I tend to disagree about the air con drain causing the problem.Quote:
Originally Posted by Andych
Uni joints are supposed to be sealed. What happens when it rains and worse, when doing a river crossing.
I got under mine one day and the air con dripped in front on the uni's on the actual shaft itself, not the uni's.
I have spent $500 on a TW shaft and I am in no hurry to relocate the air con drain.
I agree with Dave, in 7 years of ownership the drain drips on the shaft not the unis.
Everyone has their own opinion on the AC drain issue... I dont see any valid reason NOT to change the drain to ensure there is no issue with either the Prop shaft or the XYZ switch... regardless of the validity of the issues.
All I know is that the front uni on the Cardan joint has failed... in one plane ONLY..
I had time today to pull the shaft apart... that one Uni joint was NASTY... (see the pics) and I am lucky I got to it when I did..
It has also damaged the centre bearing so it is new Prop shaft time.. no TW shaft at this stage... but one from BMI.. most likely.
http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...e/IMG_1054.jpg
http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...e/IMG_1055.jpg
http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...e/IMG_1056.jpg
http://i1185.photobucket.com/albums/...e/IMG_1057.jpg
One thing I have noticed while driving around with the front prop shaft out is how much smoother Rosie drives... plus my fuel consumption has dropped... it will be interesting to see if this all stays the same with a new shaft..
What I found with my not badly but failing shaft was that the caps were seized onto the cross and the chirping was the caps turning in their holes. Andy, I'll bet it's smoother, thats fuxored.
Good grief! :o That has to be 1 of the worst looking still operating in a road going vehicle uni I have ever seen! :o That could make the "Seconds from Disaster" tv show! How loud did you have the stereo up to counteract the noise? :D
Cheers Scott
Well it is an ES with the Hardon Karmon system... and Black Sabbath NEEDS to be loud.....lolQuote:
Originally Posted by schuy1
Seriously... it was more of a gradual change.. until the chirps the day before I pulled the shaft out.. I had noticed the fuel consumption and general smoothness had gone south but didnt equate that to a propshaft issue.. more to plug leads (which do need changing).
Mine was spotless in terms of the actual unis, the bearing caps were FUBARing FUBARed :p
So now that I have my new donor shaft, which is from a pre-update, my plan is as such.
Take the main body of the shaft from my original, which was from an update and so has the good rubber boot on the end, and use the yokes from the pre-update (as my old yokes are un-usable) and stick new unis in them. I'll make sure it's run correctly in phase and get it balanced if need be.
Anyone got any reasons why it wouldn't work?
Oh, and how do you get the shaft that the diff yoke is on back into the main body? It fell out and now I can't seem to get it back in :eek: :(