Thread: D2 front drive shaft problem?

Originally Posted by Maggot4x4

Has anyone put a normal non D/C shaft in it? I don't see the need for the D/C really.

My Rangie shaft is on a much bigger angle than my D2 shaft.

Have not had a good look at the D2 so happy to be corrected.

+2

I can't find where any one has answered this question, correct me if im wrong.
Ive just been under my RRC & D2 as well,
Both the shfts are the same length, as stated above the RRC one piece shaft has a greater angle than on the D2.
Has anyone tried a 1 piece front prop shaft in, no one seemed to have any problems with them on RRC or the D1.

Originally Posted by roverv8

+2

I can't find where any one has answered this question, correct me if im wrong.
Ive just been under my RRC & D2 as well,
Both the shfts are the same length, as stated above the RRC one piece shaft has a greater angle than on the D2.
Has anyone tried a 1 piece front prop shaft in, no one seemed to have any problems with them on RRC or the D1.

More vibes without a DC joint, that's all, and most of the straight uni joints (at least OEM) don't have the working angle needed on anything lifted.

Originally Posted by roverv8

+2

I can't find where any one has answered this question, correct me if im wrong.
Ive just been under my RRC & D2 as well,
Both the shfts are the same length, as stated above the RRC one piece shaft has a greater angle than on the D2.
Has anyone tried a 1 piece front prop shaft in, no one seemed to have any problems with them on RRC or the D1.

My son had a DC joint collapse while travelling through Uralla (just south of Armidale NSW) a few years ago. Soon after he pulled up a guy who builds drive shafts for farm equipment, came out of the house he had pulled up in front of. This occurred on a Saturday afternoon and the guy was well dressed and on his was to a wedding reception, for which he was apparantly looking for an excuse not to attend.

Three hours later my son drove away from the guys workshop with a non-cardan front prop shaft. Half of the DC joint was salvaged and became a standard (single) uni joint and the shaft was extended to make up for the loss of length caused by removing one uni. All this at no charge - I think he was happy to get out of going to the reception.

The Disco was driven around with this rebuilt prop for a few weeks at up to 110kph with no sign of vibration or other ill effects. The Disco was standard height and was not subjected to any extreme suspension travel while the repaired prop was fitted.

Originally Posted by rick130

most of the straight uni joints (at least OEM) don't have the working angle needed on anything lifted.

Whats the difference with a 2 inch lifted D1 Or D2,
as pointed out already my lifted RRC has a faily decent angle on the front prop, never vibrated at all

Originally Posted by roverv8

Whats the difference with a 2 inch lifted D1 Or D2,
as pointed out already my lifted RRC has a faily decent angle on the front prop, never vibrated at all

Dunno, all I know is that a DC joint will be smoother/less NVH than a standard uni shaft for a Land Rover and that's why they fit them to the DII.

The reason why a DC joint is needed is to reduce vibration (or a standard uni shaft has the uni's fitted out of phase, which is a cheap arse work around)
The problem is that the diff pinion points up at the t/case rather than being in the same plane as the t/case output flange.

Defenders all come with standard uni's (fitted out of phase) and it isn't until you use long travel dampers you get joint bind, (or buy a new TDCi with low working angle flanges and yokes) but there is more vibration than when using a DC shaft.

From Tom Woods site

mmm,
any disco or RRC ive seen has the front diff angled upwards as in the first diagram, to keep the shaft in a straighter line, with the flange
never seen a landrover front diff parallel as in the bottom diagram.
feel free to correct me if im wrong but ive only ever seen the front diff angled upward.
When mine does crap out i think i'll be game enough to try a 1 piece front prop shaft, seems to me a whole lot of extra parts & expence for very little reward.
I have plenty laying around, and if i find it's no good i'll get the DC one repaired.
I could understand using the DC in the bottom diagram as the diff is parallel,
it kinda contradicts itself.

But thanks for the diagrams

No one has said that a Rover front diff pinion is parallel to the t/case output, what I'm trying to show is that the geometry of a Rover front prop shaft in theory should use a DC joint at the t/case end.

Land Rover mostly don't run a DC coupling, and get away with it by running the uni's out of phase, but it isn't 'ideal'.

Uni joints has obviously come up repeatedly in this thread, and most replace the LR ones with off the shelf 1300 Series Spicer type uni's.
(Hardy-Spicer part # K5-LR4)

This is a bit of a mistake.

The Land Rover uni's, while matching the 1300 Series Spicer in external dimensions, is much beefier in the cross and the needle rollers are longer than the joint listed above, making it at least as strong as a standard 1310 Series Uni.

The Hardy-Spicer # for this uni is K5-A757
The Land Rover # is TVC100010

I've posted these photo's up in various threads, but maybe more people will see them here. (I pinched the photo's from a thread on LR4x4)