Ricey let us know how you go, when I get some more cash im going back to mannell motors to get them to check the donut thing. Will let all know how I get on.
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Ricey let us know how you go, when I get some more cash im going back to mannell motors to get them to check the donut thing. Will let all know how I get on.
The 'donut' thing or rubber coupling is easy to inspect yourself.Quote:
Originally Posted by cpt howdy
Just slide under the car with a torch and look closely at the rubber coupling between the rear propshaft and the rear diff.
You're looking for cracking or splitting in the rubber, especially around the bolt holes.
If the rubber is split, this may be causing the vibrations.
I recently replaced mine as the rubber was split in a few places and looked quite old.
I had slight vibrations particluarly under acceleration.
Replaced it and wholla! no more vibrations!
A new one costs around $80-$100.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cpt howdy
Cpt Howdy. Next time you go to Mannell Motors, keep driving around the corner to the end of the cul-de-sac and look for Green Light. Speak to Carl - he is a LR mechanic unlike Mannell's who specialise mainly in Nissan and Toyotas.
The aircon drains can be a problem,they can and do depending on how the car is parked drip onto the carden joints, and on the other side the gearbox selector switch.
the fix is simple.get some beverage tubing,I think about 12mm Diam.and ram it up into the drain holes on both sides.It does not matter even if it is not a good fit,the water will naturally run along the tube on the outside,or if a good fit down the middle.
Cut the tubes off down lower than the universal and switch and fasten with cable ties to the tranmission oil pipes.
Problem solved!
Trev.
Will do Cpt! It may be a month or so before I take it in.Quote:
Originally Posted by cpt howdy
I seem to have the vibrations sorted. After checking the donut and all was good, I went and had a wheel alignment, balance and rotation done and the vibrations have gone. Guess I will find out if the have gone at high speed next week when I go away for a few days. Thanks all for your help.
Nice one matey - thing is as you say you do love them!!! Arrrgh!
Cheers
PS. Its been said before but well looked after with proper oil changes (diff and boxes too) and proper coolant (thats a biggie) and the things will just keep trucking except for some minor stuff - hopefully your 3 amigos is just down to a wheel sensor.
Cheers
Apart from the fact you can't do a castor correction on a D2 IN THE NORMAL FASHION, D2s don't have swival balls, although there is place that does castor correction control arms for D2s, that's QT Services in the UK, BUT what ever you do DON'T get the castor correction bushes, they won't work on a D2.Quote:
Originally Posted by cpt howdy
You won't need to do a castor correction if only going 50mm/2", also unless your steering damper is stuffed, don't bother changing it, the standard damper is fine.
Baz.
I got a call today from the mechanic after they had it on the dyno. The problem has been the rear tailshaft & the bit that the donut connects to. They're going to do away with the donut & replace it with a uni joint which I haven't yet looked into but from memory of a few posts here it's the way to go.