I love SLS, but ..... help!!

The whole mounting position seems a bit vulnerable. The box is anything but water proof requiring the whole compressor and value assembly to be water proof. There are a lot of O-rings etc in the motor and the connectors, but a little grit in these could cause the seal to fail.

The motor must have had a lot of water in it. The air side of the compressor wold get wet anyway by compressing humid air, but the water pooled in the MOTOR by about a cm according to the rust line on the stator. Enough to flood the brush plate and the spring.

I know they have to mount it under the vehicle, but in even a shallow water crossing, this thing is going for a swim.

I agree the sealing of the connector, I will use tape I used to apply on antenna connectors (I am, was a HAM). It is a stretchy, self sealing sticky stuff. However the main power connector is a good wet connector. You can hear, feel the pressure as it connects and seals, but I will tape it anyway.

I will check out the wreckers, auto sparky's and maybe scrounge a few old starters to find a spring.

On a side note, as all the values and solenoids are separate from the actual compressor, I suspect any old (reasonable) compressor could be fitted. A tyre inflator can provide sufficient pressure and run at about 37 lts per minute. Does anyone know the actual performance of the SLS comp?

Cheers, Tony

AFAIK its a wabco,, If that helps.
a replacement must be able to reach 80-90 psi.

How difficult is the removal?

On air suspended RRC, the compressor was built by Thomas, ex USA. In the past, I have done some transplants on these little rippers for US$65 + freight and some soldering work for cable adapting.

Would p38A air suspension have same/similar compressor?

For mine, I'd search the interest group sites for any info about the compressor itself.

At a pinch, perhaps fashion a brush out of another, say from small grinder/drill/saw?

It was really easy to remove, the hardest part was getting the intake hoses off the canister to the rear.

The pressure lines undo with a spanner, the electrics all un-clip.

The comp housing is unbolted, one at each end and the whole unit comes out easy. The comp is then removed via three bolts from under the box, leaving the left/right feed solenoids.

The comp has a DC motor which opens via two long bolts with funny looking cross heads. I can see these buggers breaking. but could be replaced with some booker bar and nuts.

On the matter of the brushes, they are fine, plenty of meat, it is only the coil spring that presses it against the commutator that needs replacing.

Cheers, Guys.