I'm gonna vote for the head gasket. But a good way to check the thermostat is to feel each end of the radiator end tanks. if water is not flowing, the end near the battery will be cold.
Printable View
I'm gonna vote for the head gasket. But a good way to check the thermostat is to feel each end of the radiator end tanks. if water is not flowing, the end near the battery will be cold.
Yep the plastic dowels busted and as a result i'm lookin for a new head as well. Big ouch from the wallet :( Can any one explain why the pressure test doesn't pick it up.
Cheers Nick
How hot does the fan need to be before the fan coupling starts to grip?
About a week ago I noticed that the coolant level was way down on by 2004 TD5 Disco. Topped up and checked every day since but all seems well and temp gauge seems normal. However, on reading this thread, I checked the fan after a short run which seemed to heat every thing up (coupling very hot to touch). It seemed to slip very easily. When engine runs fan seems to turn and there is air movement but perhaps not enough?
Anyone know how much a new coupling is?
Mundy
mundy,
i had overheating problems in my disco one. even when the engine was hot the fan seemed to spin easily it didnt lock to pulley. I thought it should have. anyways bought a new one for about 250 dollars and you guesses it: when motor hot, fan does not lock to pulley??? its difficult to find a test procedure of the viscous fan scouring the internet. If you have problems and suspect it tie it, fix it too pulley. be carefull though. for me it was 250 dollars wasted, however i have a new component making the land rover more reliable in bush!
cheers
matt
Thanks, Matt, you've confirmed my suspicions. I checked the fan when engine was hot and there seemed to be a good draft being created but the fan still seemed to slip easily when I turned off the engine. Cost of fan/coupling now $361 so don't want to buy one and find exactly same as existing unit. I've only done 74k kms so I thought it a bit premature for the viscous coupling to have failed.
Cheers
Mundy
Had an issue (actually twice in 5 Ks) over the weekend with Grimmy overheating going up a long tight windy hill (8Ks).
The temp guage very quickly shot up from normal to the red and lost power. As only doing about 30-40 Kph stoped quickly and coolant pouring our from the over flow tube. Once cooled down replaced the fluids, did this twice.
Once at the top we got to our destination with flat ground. no water in the oil, no discolouration or floaties in the coolant and no need to top up any more.
A couple of odd things did happen though.... 1) had the car parked the the shade and cool for about 1.5 hrs and when started the motor the temp guage was straight up to normmal operating temp. 2) on another short trip the temp guage suddenly dropped from normal temp to about a 1/3 and then climbed again.
Cruised on home, one eye on the temp guage, and happily sat on 100kph for over an hour.
From this thread thinking of checking the viscous coupling first... any other thoughts????
Cheers....
Whats "Rod the radiator"? mike
Rod the radiator means .....
Remove radiator from engine bay
Take it to your local radiator repair center
They take the top / side tank off to expose the internal cores of the radiator
Metal flakes from your engine block, gets jammed in these cores and blocks the passage which = overheating on laboured motors, or highway use + ect
They get a rod (about the size of your motor oil dipstick) and shove it down the cores to push the flake blockages out
They put the tank back on ... Refit to engine bay .... ask them "how blocked was it?" .... as this will give you a indication of how much did it contribute to overheating problems ;)
How old is your radiator & how often do you service it? ...
Mike
:)
Thanks for the explaination Mike:)
Would say its the original so 10 year old now and last coolant change about 30,000 ago.
Don't know when last flushed though......<_<????
Paul