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I'm going through the same thing at the moment. My lights are now at the stage of staying on all the time. I've been reading everything I can find on this. Seems to me, like this is an age thing and will start to become more frequent with D2's.
I'm amazed at the new skills I'm learning since becoming its guardian.:(
Some time ago I had the lights coming on more and more frequently so pulled the switches out & checked them and the 2-post connector but all seemed fine. Put it back together & bled the system and all's been well since. Maybe the 2-post connection was a bit suspect.
Graeme et al
Just got quoted $2700 for the ABS module - the 3 amigos!?#
Is this the issue you guys all had?
Where is the 2 post electrical connection that is being discussed as the possible bad earth - my problem is on and off - Land rover reset the computer after the lights had been on for a month and now comes on and off.
Skiboy
Hi
Had mine repaired by Bruce Davis,new abs valve kit part number-swo500040 parts and labour $1449.25 that was last year,no trouble since.
Ecka.
Probably good timing this thread came up again.
I ended up purchasing the switch to replace in my ABS module from british 4WD, however have not had the chance to have a go at changing it.
In the meantime the lights are pretty much permanently on now, funnily enough went 4Wding last weekend and they did not come on! minute back on the road back they came.
The unit now makes a grinding noise when TC is activated (when lights are off, eg system is working) and when hill descent is enagaged makes a similar sort of noise like something is not lubricated. Seems like the issue may have now expanded past the switch itself? Any thoughts?
To add to it meanwhile I have managed to get my hands on another spare unit, however do not know if it's has the 3 amegios problem or not.
My dilemma is, do I change the switch in the spare unit anyway (just in case), or even get the spare unit reco'd prior to putting in the car and replacing the unit that's in there? I don't want to put it in and find the same issue.
I can get the unit reco'd in the UK (yes OS) for $400AUD plus postage, so am trying to work that out, but at this stage still cheaper than $1400.
Next question is I am ****house at bleeding brakes, how hard is it to change the units over yourself, as I understand it needs a bleed?
Any help opinions or comments welcome!
For bleeding, see my earlier posts this thread. It really is a simple task.
I am told that the later ones ARE repairable - quoted $1k for the parts plus labour for this.
The earlier ones ARE not repairable according to the Landrover specialist on the Gold Coast. Hence $2,700 to fit a new one to my 99 D2.
For a 100,000 km that in 5,000 km and 6 months I have had head gaskets, radiator, o2 sensors and air meter done I am not a happy camper.
My SS (red of course) 6sp 5.7L after 130,000 km of flogging the behind out of it had only needed tyres (4 sets) and oils (ie reg maintenance) (including towing a 2ton caravan regularly)
There is something really odd if they can be repaired in the uk for $400 AUD plus freight but I am told $2,700 please. I believe in commerce and a fair margin but that is crap.
So what years-models are you guys getting reconditioned?
Skiboy
Before you all commit to spending thousands of hard earned cash, have you looked and searched for everything on the shuttle valves?
There has been numerous threads over the last couple of months and the trend was that the shuttle valve's are only needed to be replaced.
Look here
http://www.hummerknowledgebase.com/brakes/absmod.pdf
And here
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-...-3-amigos.html
There are only three parts which make up the modulator.
1. Shuttle valves - $120
2. Connector Plate - $1200
3. Valve Plate - HEAPS.......
Your modulator collects dust more than anything else. Why would it wear out so much that it requires a TOTAL rebuild and at great expense?
The shuttle valves fail due to lack of use. Everything else should last a lifetime.
I replaced my shuttle valves and the problem was solved. The next problem area is the Connector plate and there is no evidence of any problems with the valve plates.
Spend your $120 on shuttle valves and then take it from there.
I think a total rebuild is just not needed.
EDIT: My D2......January, 1999 build.
Dear Feral
I nearly died when I was told the cost - it crossed my mind to get out of land rover all together today. But my brother reminded me that the capital cost was low - more than made up for with the repair cost it would seem though.
Anyway it seems someone is having a lend of me then - which is what I thought - hence I dashed to this site for the good goss.
And reading this it would seem more than one person has be had on this one.
I will go the $120/$145 route as mine seems intermittent. Hence cannot be a major failure – car only done 110,000 km!
The tutorial you posted the link for is great - most helpful. Even tempted to fix myself – no sure about the bleeding and how to know I have done it correctly.
I think I will buy this part - take it to my regular (NON LANDROVER) mechanic (who used to own a Rangie so loves looking after me) and NOT pay $2,700 to the local independent (i.e. non Landover dealer but specialist Landover only mechanic) who said my Oct 99 D2 ASB could “not be rebuilt” and that the NEW unit would only be guaranteed for 20,000 km and would cost $1,000 to repair if it failed.
Unless I am misunderstanding something here you guys are saying my Oct 1999 build unit CAN be rebuilt with a small relatively cheap part.
Skiboy
Quote:
Originally Posted by feral
Appreciate your logical comments Feral.
I have done alot of investigating into this company in the UK, and they rebuild all types of ABS units, all informtion says these guys do a great job. It will cost me all up $650 landed back at my door for the rebuild.
I just don't want to get this spare unit put in to find it's also stuffed.
Is there anyway to test the unit whilst it's not in the car?
I will have to get someone to put it in as I cannot bleed brakes for ****.
The other option which i am interested in peoples thoughts, is to change the shuttle valve switch in the spare unit anyway before I put it in the car? I have the siwtch here, instead of changing the ones that's already in the car. I really think the unit in the car has other issues, as it's noises are gradually getting louder.