Getting talked out of Lift

**Redback** · 26th February 2009, 06:17 AM

The only thing I can add is, when rebuilding the front shaft, use the greasable 1310 hardie spicer unis.

Baz.

**greg smith** · 26th February 2009, 11:11 AM

Done it on my 02TD5 disco, best thing since sliced bread,driving through recent floods near Igham[towing a boat] no probs. back roads ravenshoe to herbeton[silver valley] once again flooded conditions b grade dirt roads and river crossings--all OK 2"" lift no probs with sterring geom. front shaft already replaced a little stiffer ride[heavier shocks-raw] but still fine
Greg

**Sven_040** · 26th February 2009, 04:04 PM

Thanks everyone for the replies.

First of all The sahara bar is easy to fit, all you have to do is trim the plastic flap off the bottom of the plastic trim that sits below the headlights and then mark the line on the grill each side and trim with a hacksaw. thats it.

WE DONT SELL THINGS ON THIS FORUM

IS everyone sure that 265's will fit under the car at standard height. i thought it would rub numerous parts at full articulation? (has ACE)

I was thinking full Bilstien springs and shocks.

**Blknight.aus** · 26th February 2009, 05:35 PM

they will fit but the will rub a little at max lock on near full articulation the D1 was the same in that respect.

IMHO a 2 inch lift is the limit before you need to be worrying about castor angles and the propshaft BUT I would consider getting an extra inch into the brake lines.

I, like tombie2, reccomend rebuilding the shafts at the same time as a lift. Eyeball around for the results of a D2 front shaft letting go at the DC.

rebeka · 26th February 2009, 07:32 PM

Hi All,

I'm very new at this stuff, but can some one please explain why a 2 inch lift is better than one?

How much difference does a one inch as to a 2 inch make in the div, as I thought that was one of the main reasons to get the lift? And if I didn't have a whole pile of money to throw at this but needed to get my suspension fixed (so thought i may as well get a lift) what would be the best option? Do I have to do the prop with a 1 inch lift?

Are there any other issues that I should know about? like the brake lines?

Thanks!!!

**that_kid** · 26th February 2009, 10:44 PM

i myself did a 2 inch lift into my 01 about 2 months ago and have been wrapped in it,
i went and saw shane at suspension stuff and walked out with heavy duty dobinson springs and lovells shocks and was very happy with the price.

that same week the Double cardin in the front shaft failed so had the hole thing rebuilt with all new greasable numbers and its ready for another 200k.

as for the brake lines mine at absolute full flex the rears pull up tight and the fronts are fine, however i did remove all solid mounts so they just sorta sit there but no dramas.

castor isnt an issue either all youll need is a good wheel alignment and its right as rain

other then that i run 265/75s n the only rubbing ive had was on the front bar which was promplty sorted out with an angle grinder.

thought i might throw my experiences this far in there to confuse you a bit more but mine was a former SLS model and i have to say the articulation and on road manners has improved dramatically also as towing wasnt a real concern SLS wasnt a big deal.

this is my build thread if your interested in seeing whats been done to mine

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/discovery/...gh-flyers.html

goodluck

**Blknight.aus** · 26th February 2009, 10:54 PM

have a look at you prop shaft now.

see how it has an "angle" to it?

if you lift it that angle will change and the UJ's will have to operate in a position that they currently dont normally operate in and will have settled into their current way of life. If you're unlucky when you try to make them do something new one or more will go on strike and your propshaft (or DC) will decide its now time to go visit your sump or your gearbox. This is usually not a cheap visit.

The 2 inch lift (depending on what springs you get) in reality nets you about 1.75 inches of lift (based on the D1, the last spring lift I did) and the owner complained that the steering was a bit vague. I cheated and toed it in to the toe in limit and he was happy but I suspect that it was close to needing castor correction. If your used to driving something that wanders then you dont need to worry about the castor thing (IMHO) untill you lift more than 2 inches. You will also pick up some "wallow" when cornering due to the extra height.

shockies bottoming out to aggressively and snapping welds can be a problem as can the extra articulation at the back end stressing the mounts of the shocky if the bushes are too stiff, its not a big issue but its been reported a couple of times.

Brakelines you need to check before you take it away from the suspension shop, have a look at full droop on a hoist and if there isnt a comfortable amount of slack you should consider getting slightly longer ones before you go out playing.

I would also suggest getting the panhard rod rebushed at the same time as the shockies.

Ive done plenty of D1's without having to change anything and the D2 isn't that radically different suspension wise.

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