splitting up transfer box

Yabba · 15th May 2009, 02:57 AM

I own a 02 disco II, so without the central diff lock internal parts. I bought a new cdl-unit for it, so only the front half part of the transferbox, but with the casing and all.
Has anyone split up the transferbox before?Are there any things i should keep in mind, special procedures or adjustments to do if i take off the old front part of the transferbox and screw in the new one, or is it just bleed oil, unscrew, jam in the new one , screw back together, put oil in and go?

**ghand2** · 22nd May 2009, 08:23 PM

Sorry can't help you with your Question but could you help me please. You said you brought a new CDL. Where from & how much?

**Panya** · 23rd May 2009, 01:35 AM

In the middle of doing it myself. Ashcroft internals and linkage.

1. Get Rave
2. Read Rave
3. Read Rave again..!
4. Print out pages from Rave to read when under the car!

Used a trolley jack to support the transfer box when lowering it. Rave mentions various LR tools you need but can all be made up with a bit of welding/cutting etc. First the tool to bolt to bottom of transfer box to give a flat surface for the trolley jack - helped heaps but not absolutely necessary if you have help. What you do need is the guide bolts mentioned in rave - but just get some 4" long 8 mm bolts (check thread!) and cut the head off and slot the cut end so you can put them in with a screwdriver. Otherwise no dramas dropping transfer box. Once out be careful undoing the output casing bolts - slowly and gently - they will be stiff - I gave one a bit too much and snapped one in half and spent the morning drilling it out and re-tapping it. Slotting in the new shaft and dog clutch not a problem but have some loctite and RTV silicon gasket for putting it all back together. The kit I bought from Ashcroft did not have any bearings and I decided to buy a new front ball bearing for the input shaft (new seal in kit). That was pretty much it. Tomorrow we see if we can put it back on the car without too much drama!

Yabba · 26th May 2009, 02:00 AM

Hmm, i suspect you got the internals separately, right? I bought mine in the US , but it is a complete front part of the transferbox with internals already installed.Do U think i have to take off the complete transferbox anyway, or could i just take off the front part?

**wardy1** · 26th May 2009, 07:36 PM

Rave costs about $15 and will save you an immense amount of trouble as it has schematics and easy to read instructions to do just about everything. If all that is beyond you, send a 'help' request and I'm sure there is someone here who'll do the 'angel of mercy' thing for you in your area

.where ever that is....WHY DO PEOPLE NOT SAY WHERE THEY LIVE!!!!!

**Blknight.aus** · 26th May 2009, 09:22 PM

you should be able to do it by just dropping the foot and swapping it over.

I STRONGLY urge you to follow panya and wardys advice.

what you're about to be messing with has potentially HUGE repercussions if you pooch it and its also one of those things that can go west with little to no warning. Check out some of the threads on the double cardan shaft failures. Im talking about that kind of failure.

best of luck with it..

(oh yeah, update your location)

Yabba · 27th May 2009, 06:38 PM

Hmm, i am going to use the rave thing, (that is , i suspect this means the workshop manual on CD ) , no worries, but about the location, i've spent the last 30 minutes checking everything in the FAQ and the CP-settings menus etc. but i cannot find anywhere to add my location.
Anyway, i do not expect anyone here would be so kind as to pop over and help, seeing i am living in Laakdal, Belgium

( yes the little country next to Holland and Germany).but thanks for the offers anyways.

Zute · 28th May 2009, 01:49 AM

I'll pop over and give you a hand with it, if you pay the air fare.

**jskerm** · 2nd June 2009, 09:41 PM

I have just finished rebuilding my transfer case and whilst doing it I replaced the non CDL housing with a second hand one from an old discovery. The job of changing the housing should be able to be done with the transfer case in the car, mine was out so not 100% on this. Just remove the old housing and install the new one if it is already assembled. The only problem is you have to re-check bearing pre-load as you are using a different housing (which has the pre-load shim in it) and when I installed mine, there was way to much pre-load. I could barely turn the shaft!!. All I did was undo the bolts holding on the housing and measure the gap between housing and main case (whilst holding pressure on housing). If you are using a gasket this should be taken into account. This distance should be .05 mm. If it is not, remove the shim from behind the bearing cup in the housing (you will have to change this cup anyway as you cannot run a new cup on an old bearing, use the one out of your old housing) measure the shim and subtract /add on depending on whether the gap was to big or small to the original reading. I had to machine my shim in a lathe to get it from 2.5 mm to 1.95. Otherwise shims are available in increments of .05 from Land rover (apparently).
The only other issue I had was there is no hole for the high / low sensor in the old style housing and I was so preoccupied I bolted it on without drilling one.

Now I have no change in my throttle responsiveness when I select low range. can't really notice it though.
Anyway, hope that made sense, it did in my head but sometimes I can't translate to page very well!!
Now to my next job, making my own selector for the new diff-lock and altering the wiring so I don't lose Traction Control when it's selected, back to the drawing board....

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