Ignition leads - does it REALLY need to be that hard?!?

One reason I've resisted the temptation to trade up from my trusty V8 D1 where lead changing is a simple 5 minute job.

That and the 4.0L blocks slipped liner syndrome, the more complex computerised electrickery.....

Like their shape and extra track though.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BMKal

I've made up a very simple oil filter removing tool that makes the job quite easy.

Basically a length of steel square tubing, about 750mm long, with 5/8 inch inside dimension (fits on a 5/8 socket drive) with a length of webbing / strap bolted to the other end in a loop (ends together in a "teardrop" shape). From under the vehicle, slide the tool up until the loop sits around the filter, & then spin the steel tube by hand in anti-clockwise direction until loop tightens around filter, insert ratchet drive into end of tube and loosen filter.

Have used this the last couple of oil changes and definitely makes the job easier.

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You just described to a T exactly what I have been using for 15 years for filter wrenches.

I thought everyone used them :confused:

Having had my leads changed, and also done it myself due to the apparent need to use better quality for gas, i am amazed at the cheaper prices being quoted here. It seems that even a slight reduction in efficiency affects the gas badly.
Incidentally how do you know when the coil packs are RS? Is there an easy way?

Yes...it starts running like shi*e.

Cheers

PS. Im on LPG also.

I have found with D2's that if you reduce the plug gap to 0.6mm/0.024" you reduce the electrical load on the coil packs, and they survive much longer when running LPG. They still run fine on petrol, I have done it on the last 4 I have serviced.

ill be servicing my d2 on the weekend with new plugs and leads and it seems that no one has an easy way of replacing the leads so it all bad for me.

Jay.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Rhi

ill be servicing my d2 on the weekend with new plugs and leads and it seems that no one has an easy way of replacing the leads so it all bad for me.

Jay.

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Find someone with small hands to help. Draw a diagram of the lead positions as you pull them off, otherwise you will make mistakes! You need to fit the lower ones back on before you refit the higher ones. Good luck.

Here is the diagram that I did up for replacing my leads.

Worked well as you have to do it all by feel.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by BMKal

I've made up a very simple oil filter removing tool that makes the job quite easy.

Basically a length of steel square tubing, about 750mm long, with 5/8 inch inside dimension (fits on a 5/8 socket drive) with a length of webbing / strap bolted to the other end in a loop (ends together in a "teardrop" shape). From under the vehicle, slide the tool up until the loop sits around the filter, & then spin the steel tube by hand in anti-clockwise direction until loop tightens around filter, insert ratchet drive into end of tube and loosen filter.

Have used this the last couple of oil changes and definitely makes the job easier.

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Or you can buy the above at super cheap for 4.99. They have to be good for something.

As for leads. I've found 3 different patterns for the plugs onto the coilpacks. One thing I was told is the location for the coils are different manual to auto. I have an auto and they are mounted to the engine, pointing back virtually under the inlet.

Leads I got from Magnecore. More expensive ($220- incl) but have the correct angled ends and perfect length. As for plugs, what is everyone using? I got some Bosch fusion 4 platinum/unobtanium things (shop around till you find someone who has them and doesn't know what they are and you'll pay far less that the usual $28- ea, got them for 14.95)

Mine is a V8 Auto with Bosch Fusion Plugs (Cost me about $23 each) and 7mm spiral wound leads made by QLD Ignition Leads, they are made to length and cost me $100.