Thanks,seems to now![]()
It works okay for me, try it again.
Thanks,seems to now![]()
Works for me![]()
Yep, hearing ya peter.
12 months ago I was ready to drive Disco off a cliff on auto pilot.
The 12 months before that saw me replace, fuel injector,ECU, Brake rotors, Starter motor, Sump gasket, Water pump, Fuel cooler , Front drive shaft, radiator Hoses, Pressure regulator, Fuel pump, Head Gasket, Manifold Studs enlarged, Radiator Thermostat, Turbo pressure regulator.
Cost a kings ransome for all this plus servicing costs!
12 months later and 40,000ks all is well. At the time of nearly giving up I couldn't find anything that could replace the Landrover it does everthing so well. So I had to forgive it and accept the down side. Its an awsome car and I love it, love to drive it and it has never really let me down yet.
I'm glad I found this post. I began to wonder where one draws the line in regard to repairs yesterday when I had my 3 amigos fault code read and was told it was the ABS shuttle valve solenoid. It was only 8 weeks ago I had the water pump replaced.
Like people have said it is a great car and fulfills its respective roles better than other vehicles can. I love driving it and can't wait to go to Cooktown next week when I have some time off.
Thanks for your posts guys, it's good to see I'm not the only one in this situation.
For the record the repairs have been: fuel pressure regulator, water pump replacement, alternator overhaul, front drive shaft replacement, starter motor replacement, LH front power window motor replacement, leaking injector harness, replaced both key fobs and oil leaks too numerous to mention. Also turning the ignition key is a bit dicky so I guess that is next on the list!
crl
Last edited by crl; 27th June 2009 at 07:16 AM. Reason: Forgot to write something.
I suggest you start thrashing out a repair plan now for the ignition lock. Trust me, you really don't want to get caught out when the lock finally does collapse and have to come up with a solution in a hurry.
Having said that, the temporary work around is to pop the plastic off the steering column and remove the barrel from the column. This defeats the steering lock and will let you drive with the key in the ignition. The barrel is held on with security fasteners that shear off and leave a plain button head like a rivet. So you will need a cold chisel and hammer to get them started.
$tealer prices when I had to do the repair in a hurry ; A D2 lock is 1500 Ex UK. A D1 lock which is fully interchangable 650 and in stock. By the time they sorted out getting the new lock keyed alike I came out with little change from a grand.
Initially they tried to get the lock rebuilt, apparently this can be done , once. *if* the barrel isn't too badly trashed. Mine was damn near cut in half from wear.
Since then I have come across an aftermarket ignition barrel for around 200. Not sure who had them, I though I saw it on british4wd but I can't find it now. Suffice to say, they exist and any decent locksmith should be able to key it to suit.
Don't get caught out, and get bent over a barrel by your $tealer. I wish I had known this before mine collapsed.
My right bag has gone now...drops overnight. This will be the second one in 6 years....![]()
Well I think I _may_ have found the problem with my gearbox.....
It would certainly explain some of the noises it was making.
My first thought was... cool, slap in a new bearing and good as gold. But I am pretty sure I need to get the pre-load right, which still means stripping off the extension housing and that requires some of the LR special tools.
I also don't know how much damage the schrapnel may have caused to the rest of the box. Until the bearing collapse, the gearbox was smooth and tight.
Is there anybody in Adelaide with R380 experience (and access to the tight tools) who is interested in exchanging amber/red/white refreshment for fitting a bearing, setting pre-loads and buttoning the gearbox back together?
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