Thread: Top Radiator Hose Finanlly Burst

Old hose most likely - could be overclamping the hoses as well to the point that it damages the hose - where did it burst?

It is normal for a cooling system to pressurise in operation and shouldn't cause hose cracking. There should be a pressure relief cap on your overflow bottle which relieves any overpressure (over 15 Psi), which, if faulty could cause your hoses to burst. This would only happen if your engine was overheating to a point where the coolant boils (coolant temp >121 degrees for 15 Psi), which is very unlikely - is it a V8 or a TD5?

My money's on old hoses.

Originally Posted by Offender90

Old hose most likely - could be overclamping the hoses as well to the point that it damages the hose - where did it burst?

It is normal for a cooling system to pressurise in operation and shouldn't cause hose cracking. There should be a pressure relief cap on your overflow bottle which relieves any overpressure (over 15 Psi), which, if faulty could cause your hoses to burst. This would only happen if your engine was overheating to a point where the coolant boils (coolant temp >121 degrees for 15 Psi), which is very unlikely - is it a V8 or a TD5?

My money's on old hoses.

It was most probably over clampling an old hose as it keeps weeping at where it join top of the engine. and there it did burst. I changed to normal clamp as the original clamp was moving away from the hose. It might lost its tension after a while. Well the car already 190k.

I changed the over flow tank cap 2 weeks ago and it wasnt over heating as the temp sensor says it was 90 celcius which is very normal. It is a TD5.

Btw, the new hose is here and I also ordered the new thermostat just in case. Just need to wait for the right time as my condition wont permit. I couldnt even blink my left eye

My '03 TD5 is doing exactly the same thing, leaking a small amount of coolant where the hose joins to the engine. It has been doing it since I replaced the top hose and had the coolant flushed at the last service. I tried putting a worm drive type clamp on it incase the original clamp wasn't holding properly but all this did was move where it is leaking from.

I am guessing that it is a problem with the head gasket, or head? which is allowing too much presure to build up in the cooling system. I haven't tried replacing the reservoir cap yet.

It doesn't leak much and I have done almost 10,000 kms since I noticed the problem - around 3-4 weeks ago - and have only had to put around 3-400 mls of coolant in to replace what has leaked out.

Hopefully it isn't anything too major.

DD Disco,
If your hose to engine join is slowly leaking you will probably have a build up of red coloured crust (dried coolant) forming between the rubber hose and the metal fitting; no amount of over-clamping will stop that leak.

Remove the hose from the engine fitting and clear away the crust build up - being careful not to score the metal fitting; I used a fine sandpaper to clean mine to the point where the metal looked clean and I could no longer feel any bumps or grooves.

Refit the hose with the screw clamp (don't over tighten); top up the coolant level, bleed, and watch for further leaks. this process fixed my slow leak.

anthony

Thanks for the tip. I will give cleaning the fitting a go, or maybe even replace the fitting.

However when I put the worm drive hose clamp on it moved where the coolant is leaking from. It is now leaking from where the hard plastic one near the radiator joins the rubber bit.

I figured that I will take the worm drive clamp back off as it would be better for coolant to be able to force its way past there than to damage the little hard one.

Also sorry to Dearot for hijacking your thread, thought that my problem sounded similar.

Originally Posted by DD Disco

Thanks for the tip. I will give cleaning the fitting a go, or maybe even replace the fitting.

However when I put the worm drive hose clamp on it moved where the coolant is leaking from. It is now leaking from where the hard plastic one near the radiator joins the rubber bit.

I figured that I will take the worm drive clamp back off as it would be better for coolant to be able to force its way past there than to damage the little hard one.

Also sorry to Dearot for hijacking your thread, thought that my problem sounded similar.

No problem DD Disco. It is good to hear similar problem. It may helped my problem as well.
Btw, I did change the top hose radiator yesterday and put the original clamps on. Dont want to overtighten the normal screw again.

Hi Dearot...just wondering how much your radiator hose set you back?
(bleed screw broke and housing fell into the pipe...at the moment i just have a stainless bolt screwed into the whole thing....seems to work ok but need a replacement
cheers

Hi gooddog,

It was around $95 from MLR in port melbourne. It includes all the clamps. I ended up using the original clamps that come with it.

Originally Posted by gooddog

Hi Dearot...just wondering how much your radiator hose set you back?
(bleed screw broke and housing fell into the pipe...at the moment i just have a stainless bolt screwed into the whole thing....seems to work ok but need a replacement
cheers