Hi Johnny,
It certainly sounds like it could be the battery. What makes you think it isn't?
Anyway, for starters try checking the battery connections, especially the earth.
Cheers,
biggin.
Hi All, when to go to an appointment this arvo and the D2 unlocked but when ignition turned the fuel pump ran but but starter would turn over and the solenoid didn't even engage. (D2 worked fine on Sunday and car battery good). Said bugga!! jump out to use the lads car and it took ages to get it to lock! Came back home from an hour later and tried again and it started OK once and then played up again and I had to lock it with the key in the door. I suspected a flat key fob battery but when the wife came home with the spare key hers didn't work either. It could still be the key fob batteries I guess as its been a while since they were changed. What else could it be?
Johhny Ruch
Johnny Ruch
Hi Johnny,
It certainly sounds like it could be the battery. What makes you think it isn't?
Anyway, for starters try checking the battery connections, especially the earth.
Cheers,
biggin.
Hi Biggin - Just cleaned and checked battery terminals and that hasn't help.
Johnny Ruch
Hi Alien d2,
Battery OK IF I can get into the it. Its a CAT 175-4390 1000CCA 16 months old. D2 is a manual and the engine cranks nicely and fires after approx 1- 2 seconds of cranking.
The biggest hassle is trying to get it unlocked and locked again once unlocked. It unlocks and lock very randomly. This is the first time I have had this hassle. It seems like the security module isn't disarming/arming when fob buttons pushed. So is it the key fobs or security module.
Will a nanocom box interegate the security/alarm module on a D2? I have read the manual and it does the 'fender but doesn't mention D2, I guess its try and unlock the car and have a play with the nanocom!
Cheers John
Johnny Ruch
Hey John,
If it's low batt. on key fob Red alarm/imobiliser light flashes fast.
Dont know a thing about the nanacoms, sorry.
Cheers Kyle
You can get into the slabs ecu with nanocom.
Goodluck
Andrew
DISCOVERY IS TO BE DISOWNED
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My first thought on this was fob or main battery. Battery voltage has to be above 11.5V. The only fault my D2 had (until the DC joint blew up) was it immobilised itself for no reason. I replaced battery and fob battery and still no joy, bought RovacomLite (Nanocom wasn't about then) and checked the fault codes, there were none, but clearing the codes in the BCU did the trick and it started. What was different was my alarm sounded when the key was turned and the engine wouldn't crank.
If Nanocom will interrogate the BCU and show the rolling key code this will verify the fob is working and the receiver. The other things to check given you've checked the battery terminals is the earth points and also the cut out switch on the firewall.
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The Nanocom BCU function will allow you to read the security /immobilisation settings among lots of others. Need to be careful when modifying any of the BCU settings using the "remote" function from a Laptop, its easy to set them all back to the default values when writing to the BCU. (I've been there, done that when enabling the front fog lights logic.) Not an issue if you do the toggling of the settings directly from the Nanocom.
I recommend: reading the current values, recording them, changing the one you want, writing to the BCU, then reading them back and recording for future reference.
Have a read of what all the BCU settings are and what they mean in the workshop manual before you start. The current Nanocom firmware/software doesn't do them all and there are some differences in terminology.
The Nanocom BCU setting function is very useful if you know what you are doing, it can also immobilise your vehicle if you don't!
Regards
Hi All,
Thanks for all the info. Must be LR gremlins as I tried both keys this morning and all worked as advertised! I'll grab the Nanocom and go see if any codes logged. It may have been the main battery as I did remove and reseat both leads and it just took over night to correct itself!
Cheers
John
Johnny Ruch
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