Results 1 to 7 of 7

Thread: Advice on Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Change

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Grange, Adelaide
    Posts
    699
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Advice on Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Change

    Hi all, need a bit of advice please.

    The V8 is gulping down hugh amounts of fuel, probably averaging 22L/100km on mixed driving. And it smells rank at the exhaust too.

    However, performance is fine, no rough idle to speak of (maybe hint of lumpy running when the a/c is on) and no drop in power at any rev band. Also, theres no coolant loss, no oil leaks, temp gauge right in the middle.

    Was thinking of cleaning the MAF with some electrical contact stuff first then if necessary changing it for a new one. However advice from reputable Land Rover parts dealer thought it best I put in a new Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor first as he believes this may be the cause, at just $50 thought it worth a go so ordered one, be here tomorrow (Friday 2nd Oct)

    First question 1. Could he be right?

    If so, RAVE tells me to remove the battery earth, fan, auxiliary belt then alternator so I can get to the Sensor

    Question 2. can you change the sensor without taking off the auxilliary belt but just by loosening the belt tensioner to get the alternator out, as I don't have the tools for a fan removal?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2003
    Location
    On The Road
    Posts
    30,031
    Total Downloaded
    0
    If the sensor is faulty,
    and sending "I am cold" messages even at operating temps,

    then yes, I would think that might be a problem,,,

    will a nanocom show a faulty sensor in a V8??
    "How long since you've visited The Good Oil?"

    '93 V8 Rossi
    '97 to '07. sold.
    '01 V8 D2
    '06 to 10. written off.
    '03 4.6 V8 HSE D2a with Tornado ECM
    '10 to '21
    '16.5 RRS SDV8
    '21 to Infinity and Beyond!


    1988 Isuzu Bus. V10 15L NA Diesel
    Home is where you park it..

    [IMG][/IMG]

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Grange, Adelaide
    Posts
    699
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Thanks Pedro,

    I dont have any diagnostic gear so will try the hit or miss approach first

    This is the location of the ECT Sensor (below)



    Just did a MAF clean with $11 spray and noticed the top hose (in photo) was very loose and fell off while removing the MAF, hoping this may be the issue. Will take it for a drive shortly.


  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Newborough, VIC
    Posts
    1,540
    Total Downloaded
    67.72 MB
    Hi Simon,
    I had a similar problem with my D2V8 when I first bought it.
    It used heaps of juice but otherwise ran perfectly until under it lost power when stressed climbing steep hills.This problem continued for about two months until I noticed that the air intake duct was touching but not actually connected to the manifold.
    Once I fitted the duct correctly, my fuel economy improved and the D2 powered up the hills no sweat.
    You have no idea how relieved I was.
    Having never owned a Land Rover before, I was beginning to lose faith. I'm fully converted now though. I wouldn't buy anything else.
    Good luck.
    Alan

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Grange, Adelaide
    Posts
    699
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Update,
    Well, after the MAF clean and properly securing the top clamp for air intake hose to manifold, it definitely has more torque and less throttle required than before.

    My first reaction was amazement gut feel around 20% improvement but then after I calmed down a bit (me, glass half full chappie, not half empty) and around 40klm thrash around Melbourne of slow, crawling and 110kmh thought maybe a more realistic 10% improvement. Maybe I'm more hope than anything else. (psyche profile of a LR owner)

    I'll keep my good eye on fuel consump over the next week or so and report back.

    I still have the ECT Sensor to arrive (did not arrive today). So may as well fit it when it does (first one in 10 yrs.). Therefore my original question stands. Can the alternator be removed without removing the fan and auxiliary belt?

    Cheers

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Grange, Adelaide
    Posts
    699
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Update to MAF issue and fuel consumption

    Well the effect of the MAF clean I did was short lived. After a few days the fuel consumption went back up to around 24L/100K

    Never did change the ECT Sensor, it wasn't the problem after all.

    Anyway, a service and thorough check over did reveal a duff MAF. So gave the go ahead for a genuine LR one at $320 during a service. The guys at AMV fitted it. Something about a reading of 30 thingyjibs now it reads 23 thingyjibs.

    After about 100K of urban driving plus today, a good drive down to the Mornington Peninsula with 4 people and aircon on 70% of the time, so far have 300k on half a tank of fuel compared to the usual figure of 350k from a full tank. I reckon this new MAF will pay for itself within 3 weeks

    Much more noticeable power up long hills and when pulling away from stationary too.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Newborough, VIC
    Posts
    1,540
    Total Downloaded
    67.72 MB
    Quote Originally Posted by simonl8353 View Post
    ......so far have 300k on half a tank of fuel compared to the usual figure of 350k from a full tank.
    Hi Simon,
    If you are relying on the fuel gauge for your "half tank of fuel" estimate, you will probably find that equates to about 520km's from a full tank, as the gauge is not linear.
    This is what I normal get unless I am doing a long run, when I can get up to 600km's from a tank.
    I think that is pretty normal for a V8. Please let us know the final results.
    Cheers,
    biggin.

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!