Why not check the switch's operation with a multimeter, having disconnected the plug? You would probably need an assistant to press the pedal.
Just wondering if anyone done this job?
I see that the switch is threaded and looks like it screws into the clutch hydraulic line. When I take the old one out will I lose any clutch fluid, or have to bleed the clutch after I fit the new one?
I'm dying to see if it fixes my flaring issue when changing gear, but can't risk any down time on the car the the minute.
Cheers, Andy
Why not check the switch's operation with a multimeter, having disconnected the plug? You would probably need an assistant to press the pedal.
MY21.5 L405 D350 Vogue SE with 19s. Produce LLAMS for LR/RR, Jeep GC/Dodge Ram
VK2HFG and APRS W1 digi, RTK base station using LoRa
Thanks Graeme, not a bad idea!
The flaring issue is intermittent so the switch may not show the fault all the time. The new genuine LR switch was only 4 pounds so I thought I'd just buy it and bung it in anyway.
Do you know if much clutch fluid is likely to escape when the old one comes out?
Andy,
If you have the new one in your hand when you take out the old one you will only lose a drip or two.
take out the old one, rest the new one in place and let a little fluid seep out around the threads (to let any air escape), then screw in the new one.
Job done!
You will only lose lots of fluid if someone presses the pedal while you do it.
Cheers, and I hope it fixes your problem!
Fraser
Thanks Fraser!![]()
Fraser, job as you described. Lost only a few drips. Hardest part was getting the multiplug off.
The engine flaring when changing gear has now stopped.Sweet!!
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