Thread: High pressure hose

Originally Posted by PB207

Hi there,

I own a 2004 disco series II TD5 - automatic

My gears stopped working and I just made it home but not up my driveway. The NRMA guy discovered a leak in a high pressure hose that carries the transmission fluid through the radiator to the transmission.

Can I fix this at home or is it a shop job? Expensive?

Many thanks - PB

Definately not at home unless you have a hoist.

Definately replace BOTH hoses

Definately replace with genuine as the end fittings on the oil cooler are not repairable and therefore if new hoses are made up then you still have the risk that the Orings etc in the fittings and the very connection TO the fittings will leak at a later stage.

The genuine hoses are about $500 $580 for the pair, and are about 1.5 to 2 hours to fit.

I would also change the auto trans filter and obviously the oil at this time.

JC

i wouldn't have thought that the hoses to the trans cooler carried much more than 30 psi jc,
so why does he need to replace with $500 plus of genuine when he can cut the hose off and fit new hose with hose clamps?
sorry, to dispute your opinion, can you tell me what pressure is in the trans oil cooler lines on a d2?
i have two d1's [some of us are silly] and i have run both with replaced trans cooler hoses, held on with hose clamps, the v8 has run this setup for some years now without any leaks,
although i do reccomend you do not cut the pipes off, just be careful and cut the swage fitting collar off only, this leaves the barb or ball end on the tube, and helps prevent the hose from coming loose.
on the dug dug, i used two hose clamps on each end of the hoses.

Originally Posted by harry

i wouldn't have thought that the hoses to the trans cooler carried much more than 30 psi jc,
so why does he need to replace with $500 plus of genuine when he can cut the hose off and fit new hose with hose clamps?
sorry, to dispute your opinion, can you tell me what pressure is in the trans oil cooler lines on a d2?
i have two d1's [some of us are silly] and i have run both with replaced trans cooler hoses, held on with hose clamps, the v8 has run this setup for some years now without any leaks,
although i do reccomend you do not cut the pipes off, just be careful and cut the swage fitting collar off only, this leaves the barb or ball end on the tube, and helps prevent the hose from coming loose.
on the dug dug, i used two hose clamps on each end of the hoses.

Harry,

You are quite correct about being able to do that if you retain the barb type form on the steel line, but as a repairer I MUST be able to warranty my work, and coupled with the fact that this method doesn't address the replacement of the poor pushlock type cooler end fittings and the much higher pressures that the D2 runs over the D1 (Approx 150psi and higher at times, as well as high temps and flow volume) I would be wrong to just repair the existing pipes in this manner. The D1 runs much less pressure than the 4HP22E, so it isn't as critical. I also have other issues with D2 auto trans coolers and their plumbing Unlike the D1 there are NO fittings in the pump body to screw the cooler lines into, one mistake and its the pearly gates as you crossthread the steel line nut into the ally pump body, also, I have had 1 steel line split along its seam where it goes into the top inlet on the pump, and several oil coolers split at the inlet and outlets because of light duty construction. The D1 coolers may be small, but the whole plumbing setup is way better.

The big problem with modern electronic autos is they have to cope with more and more power output, and this means usually higher pressures to prevent clutch slip and early failures.

And just to add, when I buy genuine hoses I make about $25 to $30 mark up on each one, far less than getting a new pair made up etc. It is about not revisiting the same job in the future, and the cost of repairing a D2 trans starts at $3800 PLUS fitting

JC

well he better go and buy genuine, thanks jc.

Cheers Harry,

Does anyone know of any land rover specialists that are open this week?

Or a place where I can get the parts this week to fast track the repair for Monday.

I live on the nthn beaches and have tried Ayers and British & Swedish.