Manual or Auto ??? Newbie needs help

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Pedro_The_Swift

ACE stands for Active Cornering Enhancement.
and it does what it says on the lid.

Only people that dont have ACE put **** on it.
EVERYONE that has ACE loves it.

ACE is by far the most reliable system in a D2.
ACE gives you better front articulation than standard.

Auction?
all bets are off,, Good Luck!:D

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I agree with what Pedro said, I have ACE and SLS in a 03 D2a and it makes for a damn fine handling 2.2 ton 4b that would run circles around any other 4b of its age. As for auctions you get what you pay for and you take a huge risk.

As for Disco's haemoraging oil ... if its not haemoraging oil then it must have already run out!

Sounds like it might be best to drive a couple more different examples before you decide to buy a Disco. You either love them or hate them and once you have brought one then its to late to change your mind without losing big bucks.

Good luck either way.


cheers,
Terry

Quote:

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Originally Posted by dm_td5

ACE - if fitted the power steering reservoir has two filler compartments
SLS - Air bags and not coil springs in rear
CDL - If its pre 03MY (twin headlights) it's been retro fitted so not sure. Post 2003 they all had it fitted. If it's pre-03MY and only has a Hi/Lo lever that moves front to rear then it doesn't have CDL.

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There are a few CDL retro kits that still have the transfer lever only move front to rear such as the JDavis Motorworks / Davis Performance Landys and the various electronic and one pneumatic system that I've seen.

Once I find my D2a Td5. what are the Mods that I should look at first? My first objective is reliability and economy so i was going silicon water hoses maybe K&N air filter EGR or Ball bearing Mod (still getting my head around whats going on there) Full fluid change for Engine gearbox and diffs. brake and clutch etc... what about an aux diesel filter before the pump would a lift pump lighten the load on the mail fuel pump the make it last longer? Lots to consider.

It is amazing how the different people i talk to have so many different ideas about which model is the best and which ones are the Lemons. thurns out they are all the "best car money can buy" and at the same time shouldn't be touched with a bargepole.

Cheers

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mattg

Once I find my D2a Td5. what are the Mods that I should look at first? My first objective is reliability and economy so i was going silicon water hoses maybe K&N air filter EGR or Ball bearing Mod (still getting my head around whats going on there) Full fluid change for Engine gearbox and diffs. brake and clutch etc... what about an aux diesel filter before the pump would a lift pump lighten the load on the mail fuel pump the make it last longer? Lots to consider.

It is amazing how the different people i talk to have so many different ideas about which model is the best and which ones are the Lemons. thurns out they are all the "best car money can buy" and at the same time shouldn't be touched with a bargepole.

Cheers

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Not so much silcon water hoses, but maybe silicon intercooler hoses.

DO NOT fit a K&N filter, they don't filter well enough - stick to filters which are badged with Land Rover for all of them, they are the best ones but expensive. Aftermarket filters all have funny idiosyncrasies like less filter concertinas, centrifuges wont spin, open full flows etc. Do however make some type of effort to seal the air filter into the air box properly as these can be prone to leaking.

EGR - ok remove it if you want but it wont make it more reliable I dont think, just cleaner.

The fuel pump is in the bottom of the fuel tank and is a relatively complex bit of work in comparison to lift pumps etc. Actually it already contains a low pressure and a high pressure pump in it. I get the impression that the fuel pumps start to go at somewhere between 130-150,000km+ depending on your luck. The filter is next to the DSR wheel.

If you're bent on reliability, also fit a Davis Performace Landys ATF cooler with new fluid.

Absolutely, all fluids and filters.

We dont mess around on AULRO.COM;)

read here---
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/3...ve-answer.html

Once I find my car I will no dought start tinkering so i am thinking a boost guage and EGT guage would be a good sarting point to keep an eye on these as well as have a reliable measure on boost inprovements on Exhaust changes and alike.

What is standard boost? do I need a 30 PSI boost guage?

If I got round analouge guages where is the best place to put them. I know It is a ricer but can we get pilar mounts for these?

Is there anything Digital out there.

I am considering these. ThermoGuard Instruments no boost though
or
Exhaust Pyrometer Gauge Kit VDO gauge pyro and boost - eBay Other Gauges, Meters, Gauges, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 18-Jan-10 04:31:42 AEDST)

Any thoughts?
Matt

standard boost is about 17psi(g) modified is 25+ and then some

The first thing you fit if it doesnt have one is an engine watch dog to keep an eye on temp and on coolant level it gets expensive if either of those goes too high or low respectively.

then add the pyro and boost gauge both of which are a must for keeping an eye on engine mods and wringing every K out of every L

if its an auto check the oil cooler and fit the biggest one you can afford to make fit.

What is an Engine watchdog and where do i get one.

Cheers

Matt

Also what oil should I use in the TD5 engine. I liek Elf oil but what grade doe it need.

Is the wach dog the you mentioned the engine saver?

Cheers

Matt

yes my bad, we have some vehicles at work that are fitted with a different version of the same thing and its the watchdog.

for the TD5 you wan the engine saver as per the promo ad that shows up under the logo banner for aulro.

my rule of thumb for oil is for 10/40 sydney or north and 5/30 or 10/30 for south of sydney (sydneys only used to indicate climatic conditions)

I reccomend Nulon oils and OAT coolant for the TD5.


Heres an alternative thread