Thread: Possible Headgasket Failure ??

as with the temp 100 is hot but not i have been at 108 pulling my camper up cunninghams gap on a hot day ,i am sure i have read that 125 is in the red for a TD5 as for the other Q i leave it to others to answer
cheers kelvin

Originally Posted by dearot

I got a hose under the expansion tank blown a couple days ago. Well I didnt drive, it was loaned to my friend as he needs a 7 seater for few days while we are in oversease. Btw, its a D2 2000 TD5 210000km.

Anyway, he told me that the hose under the expansion blown and caused the coolant and temp alarm went off. Luckily I had installed it. He said the temp migh have reached 100 degree, that where I set alarm to go off. But he wasnt pretty sure the actuall temp on the display when it happened.

My questions are:

1. Does 100 degree considered to be overheated?
2. If it does, should expect the head would have warped? ( I know it to be check the head flatness to find out whether the head is warped or not)
3. This is the second hose had blown on my D2. First one is the top radiator hose. Does the head gasket need replacing? (read few threads reagrding HGF)
4. Can anyone tell me what parts and tools I need to replace the HG other than Head gasket, bolts and dowels?
5. Are the parts and tools for replacing head gasket cheaper in uk (without postage) compare to Australia? As my brother is coming from uk. If its cheaper maybe I can ask him to get me those stuff as I already ordered few stuff for my D2

TIA

1. no 100 degrees isnt over heated providing thats the temperature of the coolant and NOT the temperature of some bolt that goes through the top of the head (the engine can handle a coolant temp of 120 but you are pushing your luck if you try that on for too long)
2. its an ally diesel if its be run hot with any loss of coolant its odds on its twisted a little
3. yep because to check the engine out properly you have to take the head off once the heads off a new head gasket is mandatory
4. A medium level tool box will do the head on a TD5 quite easily. you will need a good torque wrench and either a Torque angle gauge OR some know how to do up the head bolts. Generally its also worth getting

• gasket and seal set for the turbo
• new exhaust studs nuts and cone washers
• rocker gaskets
• inspecting and probabley replacing the fuel pressure regulator
• the cooling hoses that run behind the engine

(be sure to lube the threads of the head bolts and the under side of the head on the bolt Prior to inserting and insert dont drop them in.)

5. generally yes.

Hi Dearot
First thing you need to do is get it pressure tested, just because its overheated doesn't mean the head gasket had failed. I didn't get mine tested and it turned out that the head gasket was not blown at all. The dowles failed, so it might have contributed to the constant gargle sound I kept getting through the heater pipes. The td5 head is not as sensitive to heat as most think...I found that out. In the end it was good to do in the end as my engine was getting up there in the k's and doing a valve grind and the like, proved being very worth it in the end. Just drive it for a few days and see if it is doing, look for any bubbling in the expansion tank at idle and see what it is doing, then take the next step of gathering parts etc.

From my own experience, get the all the parts and tools first before you take on the job...less stuffing around that way. I would look at getting the head skimmed too, you might as well while you are there...and seeing as yours has done 210kms, I would do the valve grind too, as JC said in my thread it will outlast the transmission then. You need a good torque wrench as mentioned, an angle guage is not essential as they are easy angles to work with...I didn't use one and had no dramas. Parts wise, I would go geniune LR, remember you can only skim a td5 head once, so you'd want to use the best parts you can find.

Hope that helps.

Thanks guys for the inputs. I think I will do what Hedrik said. I will use the truck as normal for few days at least after I come back to Melbourne.

In the meantime I will get the parts and tools before doing anything on it. If anyone can tell me more (other than Blknight.aus just said) parts and tools/special tools that I need that would be great. I am not a mechanic just like to have a crack on the car. I really need details like part/tools number so that will be easier when I order the stuff.

Originally Posted by dearot

Thanks guys for the inputs. I think I will do what Hedrik said. I will use the truck as normal for few days at least after I come back to Melbourne.

In the meantime I will get the parts and tools before doing anything on it. If anyone can tell me more (other than Blknight.aus just said) parts and tools/special tools that I need that would be great. I am not a mechanic just like to have a crack on the car. I really need details like part/tools number so that will be easier when I order the stuff.

My advice is firstly print out the complete tutorial that PSimpson7 posted up as it is very detailed
Use genuine head bolts, gaskets, and STEEL dowels.
At 210,000km I'd Get the head recoed by a reputable shop that knows these engines, and YES they can be lightly machined.
Replace all cooling system hoses at this point in time, and carefully check the radiator core for leaks, specifically the bottom corners of the core.

Good luck and don't forget to ask questions if you need to

JC