Bad Vibrations Again??

Well, to try and eliminate vibration causes I was able to swap my rear shaft for one off another TD5 D2 which included a new donut/coupling. The result was that at 96km onwarsds the vibration was not as severe as with my original shaft however there was still an underlying vibration and drone(drone not mentioned before but has been present except when rear shaft removed). Does this ring any bells with anyone?
So looks like I will be replacing the shaft although it was balanced. Possibly one of the three mount points is bent. Dont know why this was not picked up when it was balanced but anyway.

I have also noticed a whine on decelleration?? yeah ok i am getting picky now but...........

Cheers
David

It may sound silly, but are the Uni-joints aligned correctly?

Whine in deceleration could be the pinion gear running of on the wrong side of the crown wheel..Pinion gear depth/clearance may need to re-set.

Since i got my discoII (1.5 year ago),i had a slight vibe/noise around 100-105 klms.
I rebuilded the front shaft(just to be on the safe side) last year,no change what soever,didn't bother much since.
A week ago i ordered a new rubber donut(genuine) and it included a centering bush and new (3)bolts and nuts.
The old busing seemed ok but i replaced it anyway.
I 've done only about 100klms,but there is definatly BIG difference (in my case).
Disco smoother not only on the critical point (around 100klms/hr),but on all speeds..
U can also try a new bush - but u know every disco has its own personality-glitches :)
Report back if u have anything new!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by fatman

Since i got my discoII (1.5 year ago),i had a slight vibe/noise around 100-105 klms.
I rebuilded the front shaft(just to be on the safe side) last year,no change what soever,didn't bother much since.
A week ago i ordered a new rubber donut(genuine) and it included a centering bush and new (3)bolts and nuts.
The old busing seemed ok but i replaced it anyway.
I 've done only about 100klms,but there is definatly BIG difference (in my case).
Disco smoother not only on the critical point (around 100klms/hr),but on all speeds..
U can also try a new bush - but u know every disco has its own personality-glitches :)
Report back if u have anything new!

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I replaced a donut on a D2 TD5 and he reported vibration INCREASE at 100km/h under power. So I undid it and rebolted it 1/6 turn around, fixed the problem. That means driving thru the thin bits instead of the thick bits.

Dave F,

You mentioned a drone at around 100kph. I have this in my 2000td5 and my local tyre man said it was tread on my tyres wearing unevenly so he swapped the front tyres around to see if the pitch of the drone changes which it did meaning i will be up for some new rubber at soon. It might be worth a shot.

Regards

Thanks Guys for the new posts. I am getting the bush replaced in the shaft Thursday and putting it back on my vehicle so will see how that goes. Given the shaft was professionally balanced, which is done by mounting the shaft via the donut only and not a spigot locating in the shaft, the bush seems the likely culprit. I will also swap the tyres around see if that makes any difference and will update my progress.

Cheers
David

Well big kudos to tombie2 and Fatman as they guessed correctly. The answer to my problem was the rear prop shaft bush. Had it replaced on Friday and NO MORE VIBRATIONS whoo hoo. Interesting that on EBay a guy is selling the German GKN donut/coupling complete with the bush and 3 nuts and bolts. I would reccommend this to anyone who needs to replace their donut. Do the bush as well.
Thanks to all who offered advice. Yep love my landy and this site.

Cheers
David

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Slunnie

I wouldn't go to a uni-uni shaft. They are more likely to induce vibration and this is the reason so many manufacturers have included a rotorflex into the driveline. The rotoflex absorbs torsional vibrations.

Another thing to check is when the shaft is out, check the output flange nut is done up tight. When this is loose it sends vibrations through the vehicle - and it can leak oil. This is the big nut in the middle of the handbrake drum. Depsite being a nylock nut it can loosen.

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Hmm...interesting, would this be why my handbrake lever/button on lever rattles/vibrates and drives me mad. I drive with my hand resting on the handbrake just to get some piece and quiet.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by td express

Hmm...interesting, would this be why my handbrake lever/button on lever rattles/vibrates and drives me mad. I drive with my hand resting on the handbrake just to get some piece and quiet.

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Not sure. :D

The handbrake is cable operated.

Just have someone revv the engine to about 2300 rpm with autobox in neutral and just feel the rear propshaft buzzing like hell. This will cause the brake shoes in the transmission brake to vibrate as well and the cable will take the vibrations up to the lever which acts as an "antenna" inside. I replaced the entire drum brake with a disc brake from x-brakes. Even then one of the brake pads was buzzing against the disc like crazy. X-brakes had a suggested work around by glueing the pad in place with silicone. Adjusting the parking brake real tight, meaning the brake will start to lock from the 2nd click keeps parking brake lever noise to a minimum. Following Urban Panzer's example (discovery2.co.uk) I will replace the harmonic balancer on the crankshaft to see if that helps.