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Thread: Walter the Dormobile

  1. #151
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Dayboro, Qld
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    Hi Colin,
    Gearbox coming out again to get at rear main seal and a bit of blue going on front guard. I've no idea why the new seal has suddenly failed
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  2. #152
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
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    6,314
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    Quote Originally Posted by jerryd View Post
    Hi Colin,
    Gearbox coming out again to get at rear main seal and a bit of blue going on front guard. I've no idea why the new seal has suddenly failed
    Jerry,

    I have dent in the drivers side wing I need to remove and also damage to the drivers side rear corner.
    The wing is partly done (I'm only an amateur panel beater) the rear corner will take some more thought. The gal corner piece is damaged so I'll remove that and maybe make a plate to go behind so I can pull the corner (via a hand winch) while I try and panel beat the panel back to shape.

    The only other panel work is a dent in one one of the sills.

    Sorry to hear about the seal failure.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  3. #153
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,314
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I need to fill some holes in the roof panel where a previous owner fitted some sort of roof rack. Sealed blind rivets wouldn't look correct so I intend to use solid rivets.

    I have a box of rivets that came from a gentleman who worked at Regent Motors back in the 50's, problem is they are a bit too long. I need to cut them down.
    I remember seeing a tool years ago for clipping rivets to length. A couple of bits of steel strip some drilling & filing and I now have a rivet clipper.

    In the attached picture the rivet is passed through the hole (from underneath), the length adjusted by putting washers on the rivet first (yes, fairly crude). The cutout in the upper jaw makes a neat job of clipping the rivet to length.

    I have a rivet set so next I need someone pressing the rivet set on the head while I peen over the shank.


    Colin
    Attached Images Attached Images
    Last edited by gromit; 15th August 2022 at 08:38 PM.
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  4. #154
    Join Date
    Apr 2019
    Location
    Medowie
    Posts
    196
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Very nice work Colin
    Quote Originally Posted by gromit View Post
    I need to fill some holes in the roof panel where a previous owner fitted some sort of roof rack. Sealed blind rivets wouldn't look correct so I intend to use solid rivets.

    I have a box of rivets that came from a gentleman who worked at Regent Motors back in the 50's, problem is they are a bit too long. I need to cut them down.
    I remember seeing a tool years ago for clipping rivets to length. A couple of bits of steel strip some drilling & filing and I now have a rivet clipper.

    In the attached picture the rivet is passed through the hole (from underneath), the length adjusted by putting washers on the rivet first (yes, fairly crude). The cutout in the upper jaw makes a neat job of clipping the rivet to length.

    I have a rivet set so next I need someone pressing the rivet set on the head while I peen over the shank.


    Colin

  5. #155
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,314
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I've made some frames to lift the roof off the Dormobile later in the year.

    I thought I'd make them on the cheap.
    Found someone selling box section steel, 3.2mtr lengths for $10 each, "have some paint on them".

    Well they were used as spacers or something in a company that powder coat MDF, there was about 1.5 mm of paint all round !!!
    Had to hammer the worst of it off and then a wire brush in an angle grinder !
    Saved money but cost me in time. Need to paint the top of each frame then weld up the cross bars (two 25MM square tubes 3mm wall thickness). I'll probably be able to lift the Dormobile with the finished frames.

    Colin
    Attached Images Attached Images
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  6. #156
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,314
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Cleared some parts stored around the Dormobile today and decided to see if it will start. It was driven into the garage some years ago and was running fine at the time.
    There's a battery on it which I've been keeping charged but it struggled to turn it over so swapped it for another one the young bloke had scored at work.

    Petrol down the carby, turned it over and it fired straight away but then stopped. Probably needed to lift some stale fuel from the tank. Tried again and this time it ran OK, even on stale fuel.
    I can't get it out of the garage at present as there is a Honda V6 with the transmission removed sitting on the driveway, I've given the young bloke 2 weeks to get it moved !

    Squeezed down the side and managed to remove the drivers seat, need to strip it, paint the frame & re-cover.

    Better start making a list of work to be done.


    Colin
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  7. #157
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,314
    Total Downloaded
    0
    I had to sort through the back of the Dormobile to find the covers for the drivers seat today.
    While there I decided to throw out some odds & ends. A previous owned had made brackets & containers to hold stuff under seats plus there was a plate that covered one of the small rear windows.

    The side window behind the wardrobe has been replaced by a riveted in panel, there is some attempt at insulation which I can't get to until I remove the wardrobe.
    The small rear window on the drivers side had an odd blanking piece which I thought was just another attempt at insulation. Aluminium both sides but seemed to be made up of layers of thin board. Took the screws out today and found a complete set of gaskets !

    Where tape had secured them in position there was clear plastic under the tape so the glue didn't damage them.
    One cork gasket fell apart but otherwise all look usable. There was also a thin sheet of what looks like asbestos and a strange copper composite gasket with a small hole in the centre.


    Colin
    Attached Images Attached Images
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  8. #158
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,314
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Stripped the drivers seat while I was at the local Woodwork Club (Mens Shed) last night.

    The base had been re-upholstered with some blue foam underneath, hog ringed to the springs. The back was the original sackcloth over the springs then Kapok then 1/2" foam, I'll be trying to emulate this and not use super modern materials.
    Purchased a couple of metres of 12mm foam, 1.8metre wide today for $37, already have some padding (to replace the Kapok) made out of reconstituted old rags (well that's what it looks like).

    Just need to make my mind up whether to replace the hessian or use some other material, The re-upholstered one used some canvas, hog ringed to the springs although I'd be tempted to sew it in place.

    Tried to source some No4 self tappers, countersunk but domed head and some No4 cup washers today without success.
    Ended up with some non-raised head screws and some slightly larger cup washers. The washers came from a company we deal with, he hunted them down, picked out years of fluff, put them in a box and when I got my wallet out told me they were 'a sample' !

    The Masonite back board has mould on it so I'll make a replacement, there was some elephant hide material in the seat kit to re-cover it. Just need to mark & drill holes for all the screws.
    Seat springs had rusted, I guess it gets damp when you sleep in the vehicle ?

    Next strip & re-paint the frame.

    Colin
    Attached Images Attached Images
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  9. #159
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,314
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The two top outer springs on the backrest were 'stuffed' (see picture), I guess this is to stiffen them up ?

    Strange that the spring setup for both seat & backrest are bare steel, this has surface rust so I'm thinking of spray painting the springs to hold back rust in future. I can't think of any reason not to paint them ?

    I briefly thought about using shadecloth instead of hessian on top of the springs but it might slip around so best I use hessian as original. I'll sew it in place. I have a roll I picked up a while back in of all places, an Op Shop.

    Found No4 Cup washers in st/st at Bunnings, not cheap though.

    Frame is sanded and I've found a source of Old English White in rattle cans for $5 each.


    Colin
    Attached Images Attached Images
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

  10. #160
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Narre Warren South
    Posts
    6,314
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Painted the drivers seat frame.
    Day 1 paint, day 2 fold the seat to expose unpainted areas, paint. Day 3 fold & check that there are no more unpainted areas around the hinges....

    The other front seat will be a lot of 'fun'.
    Difficult to handle (will need help) plus multiple settings (front facing seat, tip over and it becomes a rear facing seat, lay down for bed, tip up to access under seat storage areas).
    Will take a few days to paint all the hinge areas.

    Not long and I'll be re-covering the drivers seat.


    Colin
    Attached Images Attached Images
    '56 Series 1 with homemade welder
    '65 Series IIa Dormobile
    '70 SIIa GS
    '76 SIII 88" (Isuzu C240)
    '81 SIII FFR
    '95 Defender Tanami
    '58 Series II (sold)
    Motorcycles :-
    Vincent Rapide, Panther M100, Norton BIG4, Electra & Navigator, Matchless G80C

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