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Thread: Lesson with Nanocom

  1. #21
    Rastanius Guest
    Hi !

    @OffTrack

    ..... Using a standard battery charger as a power supply is a sure fire method of bricking your ECU
    Would be fine , if you can explain this issue a little more

    This means , that when Ctek is on other mode than "SUPPLY" - f.e. "RECOND" you destroy the ECU only when flashing or also when charging the Battery plugged into the car???

    Loading Voltage is 14,4 Volt in RECOND Mode , while it is on 13.2 V on SUPPLY Mode.

    Thanks for this info .

    Ciao Hannes

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
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    Hannes,

    Perhaps not "sure fire" but it would defintely increase your chance of failed reflash.

    Preprogramming/flash requires a clean power supply with adequate voltage. A fully charged car battery or a regulated power supply will give you that.

    Depending on the battery charger you will get either a poorly regulated, noisy supply, or using more advanced chargers the potential for the charger to switch between charging stages while you are reflashing the ECU.

    These factors will increase the chances of a failed reflash. You are better off either using a dedicated supply, or recharging the main battery before attempting to reflash if the voltage appears low.

    cheers
    Paul

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2014
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    So, to confirm, can I use a 12V lab/school science type power supply connected to the car battery to keep the charge up, or does it need to be more like 13v?
    Current - Silver 2007 SE D3
    2005 Defender 110 Wagon TD5 - Gone :(

  4. #24
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    So, to confirm, can I use a 12V lab/school science type power supply connected to the car battery to keep the charge up, or does it need to be more like 13v?
    I think the AMPS are also important.

    I have bought and use a Jaycar 20AMP power supply for AFAIR $99 which I attach to the starting battery before hooking up the Nanocom.

    According to my volt meter this holds at about 13.5-13.8 volts even when the ignition is turned on and the drag comes from fuel pump and capacitors in the ECU.

    You also should turn off all ancillaries like the climate control, radio etc etc .

    I bought a 20 amp power supply after seeing how the ignition on position drags down the battery to about 12volts if at 12.7 rather than say a 10amp power supply.

    I have had no trouble reflashing a few times even though the Nanocom instructions are wrong, as you have to turn ignition on to reflash which they don't say.
    Regards Philip A

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