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Thread: Nanocom Evo 2 Question

  1. #1
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    Nanocom Evo 2 Question

    Hi guys,
    Just connected a nanocom evo 2 to my td5 disco 2... just wondering how i can check my Maf readings?

  2. #2
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    Hi

    Firstly after you have plugged it in and communicating with the car, check if there are any fault codes present, this will be under the TD5 menu. If there are none relating the the MAF sensor or airflow then go to the instruments section and with the engine running see what the readings are. Airflow is the reading you need to look at. At idle it should be around 50ish and when driving can range up to mid 500's depending on engine revs. If the reading is a flat line of 4 then the sensor is very likely stuffed.

    I hope the above is clear enough. I don't have my nanocom to hand so I'm going from memory. I'll update when i get home tomorrow, if the oracle Offtrack (Paul) doesn't correct me in the meantime

    Cheers

    Steve

  3. #3
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    Seems right......
    Kev
    2005 TDV6HSE D3
    2006 V8HSE D3
    99 TD5 D2 (Gone)
    97 RR Autobiography original (Gone)

  4. #4
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    Thanks Steve,
    Ye all makes sense... i should of taken more note... there was a fault which i cleared... relating to to air flow...
    On idle the air flow is fluctuating from around 39- 55... havent gone for a drive yet... It seem ok then...?

  5. #5
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    I recently tested mine it was high 40s....
    Went and bought a can of CRC maf cleaner.....took maf out gave it a good clean and now reads 50s+ and the car responds much better....

    It didn't look dirty, but looks can be deceiving.....for the sake of a can of maf cleaner and 10 mins work.

    Cheers
    Kev
    Kev
    2005 TDV6HSE D3
    2006 V8HSE D3
    99 TD5 D2 (Gone)
    97 RR Autobiography original (Gone)

  6. #6
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    I concur with Kev. Give it a clean and see what your readings are like afterwards.

    Also sensors that are on their way out can still give ok readings at idle, but not on a test drive.

    Steve.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rok_Dr View Post
    I concur with Kev. Give it a clean and see what your readings are like afterwards.

    Also sensors that are on their way out can still give ok readings at idle, but not on a test drive.

    Steve.
    Prior to cleaning, mine maxed out in 400s, now high 500+, so cleaning was well worth it....as I said car now feels much smoother.

    Cheers
    Kev
    Kev
    2005 TDV6HSE D3
    2006 V8HSE D3
    99 TD5 D2 (Gone)
    97 RR Autobiography original (Gone)

  8. #8
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    Hey guys, took it for a drive today... alot figures jumping up and down..
    At around 50kmh the air intake jumped around between 98 to 250 and at around 70kmh was jumping around from 290 down to 120
    At high revs it would go from 350 to 550 but started getting jolty and would would drop down to 120s

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by LRDTD5 View Post
    Hey guys, took it for a drive today... alot figures jumping up and down..
    At around 50kmh the air intake jumped around between 98 to 250 and at around 70kmh was jumping around from 290 down to 120
    At high revs it would go from 350 to 550 but started getting jolty and would would drop down to 120s
    You really need to record the fuelling to file and look at it using either a spreadsheet app or the viewer app. It gives you a far better idea of what is going on than try to watch the figures fly by as you are driving.

    You could also use the peak reading button to see the highest reading, but recordings are far more useful. 550 sounds pretty reasonable and I wouldn't think the MAF was faulty.

    What is important is airflow vs throttle opening or boost levels rather than speed.

    If you are getting jolting I'd suspect you are getting over-boost. If you can record fuelling and get it to jolt you should see the boost drop down to exactly 100.00 for a second or so and then recover. This is the ECU limiting and once you know what to look for in the recordings it's pretty easy to spot.

    cheers
    Paul

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by OffTrack View Post
    You really need to record the fuelling to file and look at it using either a spreadsheet app or the viewer app. It gives you a far better idea of what is going on than try to watch the figures fly by as you are driving.

    You could also use the peak reading button to see the highest reading, but recordings are far more useful. 550 sounds pretty reasonable and I wouldn't think the MAF was faulty.

    What is important is airflow vs throttle opening or boost levels rather than speed.

    If you are getting jolting I'd suspect you are getting over-boost. If you can record fuelling and get it to jolt you should see the boost drop down to exactly 100.00 for a second or so and then recover. This is the ECU limiting and once you know what to look for in the recordings it's pretty easy to spot.

    cheers
    Paul


    Hi Paul,

    Whens the training course start???
    Thanks for the leading me in the right direction... I need to get a memory card and go form there... I think i might bug ya on a private message... hahah

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