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Thread: Maf being economical with the truth

  1. #1
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    Maf being economical with the truth

    The maf on my td5 d2 has been reading about 58 at idle and 620 flat out,as these readings seem about right, I have been chasing other areas for my performance issues, (well the cars anyway!)

    However recently noticed it was reading 52 at idle, although performance has not changed, so went for a drive and noted airflow was about 150-160 at about 60kmh on flat road, which seems a bit low compared to other posts I have seen, (correct me if i'm wrong) so I removed it and cleaned it during which I broke it, so now driving with it unhooked, and there is ABSOLUTELY NO DIFFERENCE to before, goes the same , gears change the same,( which i've never been happy with).

    So this has me thinking that it has been playing up all along, but still seeming to operate within the low and high readings viewed as normal, and well enough to throw me off the track, I wonder how many mafs there are out there doing this to unsuspecting motorists.

    So now I need a new one.
    I know in the past many have said the aftermarket ones are no good, has this changed? I see a number of cheapies on ebay and was wondering if they are worth a shot.

    cheers james

  2. #2
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    Maf being economical with the truth

    If you are planning on buying a cheap eBay MAF I suggest you put your broken one back in and save yourself some money.

    A Siemens MAF will cost you around $120. It's money well spent if you are even remotely concerned about performance.

    To correctly map a MAF response curve for tuning purposes you need a flow bench rig that replicates the intake tract - including the airbox and turbo inlet hose. This allows you to measure accurately the output of the MAF at specific air flows. Without using a setup like that to compare the response curves of a known good MAF with a questionable one you have insufficient information to make an informed judgement. All we have at our disposal are very approximate methods and these are only really reliable for detecting gross failures.

  3. #3
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    Thought that would be the case, bought this one off ebay,

    item no. 171061846020

    doesn't have the 'z' on the end but lists it in all the references, so hopefully ok.

  4. #4
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    Looks like the right part.

    I got mine here a couple of months ago

    Airflow Sensor - OEM at www.rimmerbros.co.uk

    with royal mail airmail postage - approx. $125.00 at current exchange rates

    I like to save money when buying parts - and eBay is the last place I look unless I'm trying to pick up used bits cheap. Rimmer, Brit-car and others usually undercut the eBay sellers, either outright or simply by not price gouging on shipping charges.

  5. #5
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    Another $20 I didnt need to spend, but thats part of the fun of owning a land rover isn't it ,guess I've watched too much red dwarf and was frightened of using a business with 'rimmer' in the title

    Will use them in future though, i'm sure i'll need more bits!

  6. #6
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    It's does pay to shop around a bit but I find that Rimmer Bros, Brit-Car, LRSeries, and LRDirect are all good. Rimmer Bros take up to 48 hours to ship international orders providing things are listed as in stock, but are still pretty quick and have the advantage of giving you a listing of shipping options and charges at the first step of checkout. The others manually quote shipping charges so there is a bit of a delay in processing anyway.

    The thought of an obnoxious hologram handling the orders is a bit off putting

    cheers
    Paul

  7. #7
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    Well I got my new maf, put it in and has made no noticeable difference , its reading 55-57 at idle but you have to valve bounce it to get over 600, the highest I saw was 607, at 3000rpm no load in park it is at 280-290, are these readings ok? did a search and thinking they may be a bit low.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by shack View Post
    Well I got my new maf, put it in and has made no noticeable difference , its reading 55-57 at idle but you have to valve bounce it to get over 600, the highest I saw was 607, at 3000rpm no load in park it is at 280-290, are these readings ok? did a search and thinking they may be a bit low.
    I have a sneaking suspicion that you are shooting the messenger...

    You'll hit the rev limiter before you see valve bounce and the rev limiter is set at just under 5000rpm. On an auto, the box will upshift at 4100-4200rpm if you put your foot flat to the floor from a standing start. If you are getting roughness and missing under heavy load you might be running into an overboost condition.

    Both the airflow readings sound ok to me. Top end might be down a little but if you have just installed a brand new OEM MAF I'd suggest you need to look at other things that will limit demand for airflow rather than the MAF.

    Can you do a recording of the fuelling inputs on the engine and post up the .csv. If you can do a run with foot to the boards from a standing start that would be very informative.

    cheers
    Paul

  9. #9
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    What I was getting at was there may be another problem than the maf if two read the same,I am wondering about intercooler problems or turbo, maybe its fine and is as good as they ever are.
    Attached Files Attached Files

  10. #10
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    I forgot that I was eliminating other problems and I have the boost contoller bypassed, have hooked wastegate straight to intercooler pipe and adjusted the control rod, not sure if this will be limiting performance much.

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