Hey SPROVER, how did you go with your so card?
Sent from my HTC_0P6B using AULRO mobile app
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Hey SPROVER, how did you go with your so card?
Sent from my HTC_0P6B using AULRO mobile app
Sorry I forgot about this. I did try another SD card and it came up with the same thing.[emoji34] I haven't tried again since last week. I'm about to have my map re tweaked so I need to sort it out. It use to work fine so it's got me stumped. I'll try a few other ones on the weekend. Any ideas?
Cheers
Chris
Just saw that, IMO it's a clear prove that the boost boxes are not the best option cos your MAP reading is quite mixed up and it doesnt fit with the other readings which might disturb the addaptive strategy
let's take 2 relevant examples(MAF and in general all the readings are OK except MAP and AAP)
1. pos 68/idle - 777rpm ,
AAP = 100.12 which is good
MAP = 103.38 which is already altered cos at idle MAP should be very close/similar with AAP
MAF = 60 normal
2. pos 86/ under heavy throttle - 4165rpm
AAP = 95.95 too much drop for a normal setup
MAP = 172.13 too low due to the boost box
MAF = 593 normal but for that reading the MAP should be above 200 and the AAP drop should not exceed max 3 units
so that almost 5 unit drop in AAP is too high which means restriction in the intake(filter) or sticking depression(crankcase breather) valve, my advice is to replace the air filter with new good quality one and the depression controll valve if you know it's old cos even if they work it's a plastic bit exposed to hot and oily gasses which will reduce it's performance in time...
IMO if you want a good tuning and what's "healthy" for your car you better go for wide range MAP and proper remap for it than alter the MAP reading with a voltage clamp(cos that's what those "boost boxes" are) while you boost the sh*t out of the engine by tightening the wastegate without knowing the real boost ... off course i must reiterate before somebody shoots me that :)
i can't attach the whole file cos i get "invalid document but i quote the relevant part from nanocom guide, the red parts are relevant in this discission but be aware that AAP is actually the real ambient pressure there measured with barometer that 100KPa statement is generic(disregard those (?) thinghs it's something generated by the forum due to some incompatibility)
Quote:
Originally Posted by NANOCOM - DIAGNOSTIC FUNCTIONS OF THE TD5 ENGINE
Great info sierrafairy! I love that you've been able to decipher some of the info in there for me. Now that you've said it and posted definitions, it makes sense which is even better.
I have since put a boost gauge in, running 20psi +/-1 depending on ambient temps. Seems about right given people are saying boost cut is 21psi.
My air filter is a brand new Mahle filter (genuine oem I believe?). Will a snorkel help or hinder the breathing? I'll have to get onto the crankcase breather.
SPROVER, who is tweaking your map? I can't get onto Jos? to get a stage 2 map. 😢
Unfortunately i know almost nothing about snorkels, what i know is that a malfunctioning/old depression controll valve can mix up things in the intake and they usually do when they get old even if it still opens/closes, i treat mine like a kinda medium term service item and i replace it after around 30K Kms...and if you have a gauge and you see that the boost is below overboost protection anyway get rid of that boost box cos it just mixes up the ECM's addaptive strategy
I finally was able to save a run on the SD card. But it is a CSV file and I cant upload it to here. It says invalid file. How should I go about doing it?:confused:
A common problem with SD card readers and devices that use them is that some cannot use the extended or high capacity of the later cards. I have camera that will not use cards with more than 2GB.
OK thanks for the help guys. Hopefully this works now. If someone can interpret the info for me that would be great. It was about a 20 min recording so there should be heaps of information.
Cheers
Chris