MF165 Project

Managed a couple more hours tonight after work. Degreasing and painting mainly, but I did finish adjustment of the brakes, adjusted the clutch and freed up the seat adjuster so my fat arse didn’t drop the seat straight to its lowest position - which makes it hard to drive.

Will be back there Sunday to continue - flip of the coin if I continue with cosmetics or fix the oil and fuel leaks. Will reassemble the 3 point linkages first, so the back end (minus the guards) is complete.

Here’s a couple of pics of the progress. Amazing what some degreaser and paint makes (although this was hard graft - there was 50 years of crud to remove). 👍

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...b9324116_k.jpgC027644B-ECA2-4BF2-9A0F-6463BD04E063 by Gavin Gregory, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...85d62c7a_k.jpgEDC73194-CB75-4F57-A7D0-E5CA8856A008 by Gavin Gregory, on Flickr

It's looking good Gav.
Which Perkins donk does it have AD4-203 or the 212?

Cheers, Mick.

Did you fix that leaky stand pipe before the nice new paint? It appears that it does have pressure control. You probably know, but there is a special hitch that is part of the pressure control system. Used to use one on our 135, and in some conditions it was the only way to get traction. Looking good!

Something else that I just noticed: what is the control where the rear of the RH footplate has been cutaway? Appears to be another hydraulic control? (not the diff lock)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Old Farang

Did you fix that leaky stand pipe before the nice new paint? It appears that it does have pressure control. You probably know, but there is a special hitch that is part of the pressure control system. Used to use one on our 135, and in some conditions it was the only way to get traction. Looking good!

Something else that I just noticed: what is the control where the rear of the RH footplate has been cutaway? Appears to be another hydraulic control? (not the diff lock)

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Have the parts but not done it yet. It isn’t a big job - on the late model 135’s and 165’s it trickier but only the very last of them. This is an earlier version and the standpipe will withdraw once the 2 bolts are removed, even with pressure control - have checked this when ordering parts. The tricker install only effects the very late ones just before their production ceased.

That other lever is the draft speed control. Can be set to operate very slowly or very quick or anywhere in between. Probably won’t use the draft control anyway so sort of redundant to me.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mick88

It's looking good Gav.
Which Perkins donk does it have AD4-203 or the 212?

Cheers, Mick.

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Thanks mate - I haven’t checked yet - there’s a data plate on the engine, but haven’t got to that and I wouldn’t know the difference by just looking at them. 😊

Dont know how true the following is, but the engine types should be correct:

MASSEY FERGUSON 165 SERIAL NUMBERS (UK BUILT) :
PERKINS AD4-203
1965
500001 1966 512207 1967 530825 1968 5473841969 563701 1970 581457 1971 597745


Perkins AD4-203, bore 91.49 mm, 53.30HP (43.50KW)
•
Perkins AD4-212, bore 98.43 mm, 64.00HP (48.00KW)


Dual clutch, MK2 hydraulic pump
PERKINS AD4-212
1971 100001 1972 103622 1973 116353 1974 1264481975 135036 1976 145432 1977 1556871978 164417 1979 173144
Final 173696
HOW TO ESTABLISH THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN 203 & 212
When seated on the tractor :
203 silencer will be on the left hand side & starter motor on right handside.
212 silencer will be on the right hand side & starter motor on left handside.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Homestar

Thanks mate - I haven’t checked yet - there’s a data plate on the engine, but haven’t got to that and I wouldn’t know the difference by just looking at them. 😊

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So going by "Old Farang's" post it is the Perkins AD4-203
Very similar looking engine to the three cylinder AD3-152 that was in my MF135.
The AD4-203 shares the same bore and stroke as AD3-152 engine.
When i rebuilt my three cylinder engine many years ago some of the parts, rings, bearings, etc, had enough bits for the four cylinder engine.


Cheers, Mick.

Yep, looks like it. The engine doesn't need anything more than a small fuel leak on the fuel pump fixed and maybe a front seal - which isn't too bad as I have all the front off the tractor for the cosmetic work, so just have to remove the rad if I do this - probably should given I'm that close to having everything off that end. [smilebigeye]

Small update, no pics - nothing to really look at yet.

I have been doing some evenings on the tractor, mechanically now pretty complete apart from a service and some wiring. Have done the leak on the fuel pump housing, oil leak, cleaned the whole thing - lots of dirty work, but it looks great, even without paint yet. New Steering wheel, seat cushions, ignition switch, gators around the gear sticks, etc - all stuff that didn’t need doing, but I did anyway.

Once the wiring is finished, all I have left to do is the panel work. I did spray one panel with what I though was the right colour - it wasn’t.... Have a new red to try now, which I know will look good. Then it’s reassembly of that front end which will be a nightmare, then it’s almost time for the farm.

Sounds so quick and easy when I write it down...😇

How do you know when a quick freshen up of a vehicle turns into something more....

Probably when you start ordering bits like this that are not required at all, but you do it anyway because it will look good... 😇

All these bits are very serviceable on the tractor, no need to replace them but as I tidy up things and paint them, they stand out a bit is all, so I’ve decided to dump some extra doe on it and do as good a job as I can. 👍. I plan on owning this tractor for a long time, so not so much of an issue IMO.

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...08ca1541_k.jpgEC2E895F-51EA-40E2-BEED-347489C93D12 by Gavin Gregory, on Flickr

https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/...341f35a1_k.jpg1C7200FB-6F1B-4785-AA33-A455BEA14C80 by Gavin Gregory, on Flickr

Will be working on it this weekend so will see if I can get the front end finished. 😊