disabling engine immobilizer on 99 freelander diesel

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Originally Posted by keith moore

Yes,the remote case is damaged on the outside and inside.Inside,someone has had a go at soldering the bracket that holds the battery but it is now come apart again.

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You can't bypass the immobilizer system. up to 2000 there is a chip in the plip that turns off immobilizer when it is close to ignition barrel ( red light on instrument cluster go's out). If you have to press the unlock button on plip to start the engine, the chip in plip is usually buggered. Could be the transponder coil that is around the ignition barrel ,but usually plip.
If you dont have to press unlock on plip to start engine just lock doors with key. This will leave alarm system off.

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Originally Posted by woko

Up to 2000 there is a chip in the plip that turns off immobilizer when it is close to ignition barrel ( red light on instrument cluster go's out). If you have to press the unlock button on plip to start the engine, the chip in plip is usually buggered. Could be the transponder coil that is around the ignition barrel ,but usually plip.
If you dont have to press unlock on plip to start engine just lock doors with key. This will leave alarm system off.

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True but the the immobilizer ECU can be programmed cancel that out so you have to hit the unlock button to disable the immobiliser even if the key is in the ignition. I had some coding done on my system and it came back that way - not a real inconvenience just something extra you have to do if the immobiliser has activated.

To the original post I have been through all the issues you mentioned. The bracket that holds the battery does break and can be soldered up. Mine is.

So put in a new battery and stand next to the car and press each button in turn in quick succession at least 5 times. If the fob is keyed to your car and works, the car will lock/unlock etc and the fob is now synchronised with the immobilizer ECU.

If it does not work, the manual method of switching off the immobiliser so you can start with the key is tortuous and time consuming - can take up to 13 minutes - and it has to be done on each occasion you want to start after the immobiliser has come on.

Alternatively the fob you have may be all OK but not linked to your immobiliser ECU. This can only be done on the rover computer held by dealers and some individuals. The ECU is coded to receive the signal from your fob.

If you need a new fob buy from the UK - usually Ebay but make sure you get one for Aust (315Mhz) and not the UK as the frequencies are different. The model number is on your case. Cost me $50 for two - a dealer here will charge at least $200 for one then charge you about 1/2 to 1 hours labour to code it to the car.

Hope this helps

Garry

[QUOTE=garrycol;1276758]True but the the immobilizer ECU can be programmed cancel that out so you have to hit the unlock button to disable the immobiliser even if the key is in the ignition. I had some coding done on my system and it came back that way - not a real inconvenience just something extra you have to do if the immobiliser has activated.

You must of got programing done with a after market computer because the T4 will always recognize the the coil around the key. You can get alarm to do different functions but not the immobilizer. Usually when they will unlock with plip but you have to press unlock to start the engine the chip in the pilp or the passive coil is u/s. If you have 2 plips close to ignition barrel you will have to press unlock on one of them as the CCU will not recognize 2 plips at once

I had three fobs and all worked as advertised until I had another coded at a well known specialist in the next really big town north of Sydney. Non now switch off the immobilizer when the key is turned. I have not found it to be an issue - only if getting into the car when it has unlocked for a while.

As you indicated, the specialist may have have a different computer.

Garry

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Originally Posted by garrycol

If it does not work, the manual method of switching off the immobiliser so you can start with the key is tortuous and time consuming - can take up to 13 minutes - and it has to be done on each occasion you want to start after the immobiliser has come on.

Garry

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Hey Garry,

This information is excellent. I am looking at purchasing a 1998 Freelander and your suggested solution should solve my main problem: The alarm remote and main key was lost, and the engine is now immobilised. Problem 2, is that the timing of the engine is out.

If you had any information on how to locate the manual method to switch off the immobilizer that would be greatly appreciated! Also how to set the timing of the engine also if able.

I'll continue my search for these solutions and will be viewing the truck this weekend to put in an offer if I have tracked down the costs.

Thanks everyone,
Anthony

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Originally Posted by Anthonyoh

Hey Garry,

This information is excellent. I am looking at purchasing a 1998 Freelander and your suggested solution should solve my main problem: The alarm remote and main key was lost, and the engine is now immobilised. Problem 2, is that the timing of the engine is out.

If you had any information on how to locate the manual method to switch off the immobilizer that would be greatly appreciated! Also how to set the timing of the engine also if able.

I'll continue my search for these solutions and will be viewing the truck this weekend to put in an offer if I have tracked down the costs.

Thanks everyone,
Anthony

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Hi Anthony

I am sorry but you will need the Emergency Key Access code that is recorded on the Security card for that vehicle. Even if you had it you need the vehicle key to use it as the immobilizer is activated by the car key in the drivers door - a slow process of entering the code via the key that will take about 10 minutes.

If you do not have the emergency key access code - a dealer might be able to get it from landrover records if you provide proof of ownership and a VIN but I am not sure. The actual process is outlined in the manual.

So if you do not have a car key, the remote fob and the security code, all I can suggest is buy a new fob and get the vehicle trucked to a dealer or specialist with the right equipment and get the whole lot reprogrammed.

You said the engine has a timing issue - I am assuming an L series diesel here - if it is a 1.8 petrol then I have no ideas.

For the diesel do you mean valve timing or fuel injection timing. The former will mean the cam belt coming out (is the engine damaged) and setting the belt up correctly.

I assume you mean fuel injection timing - I do not know about sensors such as crank sensors ad the sensor on no1 injector, so if this is an issue someone should be along with an answer.

If the injection pump belt has not been set up correctly or the injection pump not locked when worked on the the injection pump timing will have to be set up again - setting up the pump with the firing sequence and putting the belt in the correct positions on the pump drive and end of the cam shaft.

Your prospective purchase would need to be cheap with these issues.

Garry

Oh did I say that my Freelander is about to come onto the market.