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LR call it a secondary Low pressure pump. on the 01 the second pump is mounted on the LH chassis rail in the engine bay. 02 onwards have the 2nd pump mounted in the RHR wheel arch. All have a tank pump which is the primary LP pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by garrycol
Yes the mechanical pump is the main injector pump, Its a different to a L series as it doesn't control injector timing or revs it just pumps HP diesel. Timing and revs are computer controlled through the injectors.
Well, mine is the 01 with 3 pumps - one in-tank lift pump, one in the engine bay on the LH guard right next to the filter, and then the engine driven common rail pump. My DID Pajero has one pump - period. The mechanical injection pump and nothing else.
I'm very surprised they have no water trap. The literature states that the pump next to the filter emulsifies any water, which I guess means it is mixed with the fuel and simply ingested by the motor.
Back to the original problem - the cam sensor and an OBD reader are yet to turn up, but more reading turns up a few more possibilities. One is that the wiring loom from the common rail pressure sensor to the ECU is prone to failure, and running new wires can overcome the problem. Just as well I like tinkering with electronics & mechanicals.
More things to chase. Pat
p.s. - Attached are some pics of the car in question.
sounds like a cam sensor problem for sure, especially if it only does it when hot.
Our 2004 Freelander TD4 has started performing this same trick.
It only happens when it is considerably hot and the engine will crank over but will not start.
Leaving it alone for anywhere between 30 and 90 minutes will guarantee it will start again. It never happens when the engine is cold.
I have read about the issue on this and some other Freelander forums and the consensus seems to be that it is the Cam Sensor.
I have ordered a new one from British Parts and will attempt to swap it out myself. Doesn't sound too difficult, but I cannot find the exact procedure in the RAVE manual.
If anybody does have RAVE instructions or indeed any instructions for this, it would be greatly appreciated.
I'll let you know how it goes.
Cheers
Dave
Dave - Maybe the attached will help. It is for a 2001 TD4, is it same on the 2004?Quote:
Originally Posted by adm333
Pat - I want your nudge bar for my wife's 2001 TD4. Want to sell it? :angel: If not, could I possibly get some close-up pics of how it mounts to the body please? I can't find one to suit the TD4... apparently is different to the 4cyl and V6 models... :o
Cheers, Paul.
Hi Paul
Once again, thanks for the useful info.
Now that I know what to look for, I can actually find it in my Rave manual.
Looks like a 5 minute job.
(So I should be able to do it in about 2 hours !!!! )
Dave
Well,in my case the cam sensor did fix it. I carried around a can of electronics freezer spray for a while until the new sensor arrived (rather until the correct one arrived). Every time it refused to start we would simply pop the bonnet, give the sensor a good squirt and it would fire right up. This might be a good way to confirm if yours has the same fault? The ECU had logged no codes by the way.
Still haven't nailed the 3 amigo's fault yet though.
Pat
Pat
When you say "the correct one", I am wondering if the same thing has just happened to me.
The new one arrived today and it is slightly different to the original one. The older one has a step in in with a narrower barrel, and the new one has no step and is a wider barrel.
The new one doesn't work - the car wont start at all.
Same thing ?
Dave
This is a pictures of the 2 different sensors.
The car won't start with the new one.
Paul, you can have the nudge bar if you like. I pulled it off and threw it away behind the shed. It was full of rust under the powdercoat - obviously poorly prepared. It attached with two small straps on the bottom to the same bolts used for the sump guard. Then two bolts through the bumper into factor mounts. All very non-study.
Dave, I'm fairly sure my sensor looked like the one on the left. I ordered one off of LRAutomotive via their website and it was completely different - different connector, profile, size etc. After supplying my VIN they found the right one and sent it (BMW original). About $175 or so. Your new one looks like it might be aftermarket?
Pat