just got a L series freeloader

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Originally Posted by woko

The timing pin hole is between the IRD and the block near the crank sensor. its only small. the pin is about 1/4" diameter. You cant get you hands in there, has to be fitted with a magnet and a small pry bar as a screw driver will need a bend in it. It would be easy with no IRD.

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I am finally doing the belt change job. As indicated last time I did it I didn't put the crank pin in bit this time I thought I would do so. I know where the hole is (just under the starter) but even with a mirror and light I cannot see it.

So where did you go in to get your magnet and pin in. There does not seem to room from underneath, too many ancillaries from the top so was thinking horizontally from the drivers side at the back of the engine.

On reflection it looks like it is too hard so I might do what I did last time is not put it in and mark everything so if it does move I will know - with the compression of the engine it is unlikely to move. I bet no service centre puts in in - just too much hassle.

I will put the camshaft and injection pump pins in as they are easy.

Garry

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Originally Posted by garrycol

I am finally doing the belt change job. As indicated last time I did it I didn't put the crank pin in bit this time I thought I would do so. I know where the hole is (just under the starter) but even with a mirror and light I cannot see it.

So where did you go in to get your magnet and pin in. There does not seem to room from underneath, too many ancillaries from the top so was thinking horizontally from the drivers side at the back of the engine.

On reflection it looks like it is too hard so I might do what I did last time is not put it in and mark everything so if it does move I will know - with the compression of the engine it is unlikely to move. I bet no service centre puts in in - just too much hassle.

I will put the camshaft and injection pump pins in as they are easy.

Garry

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I get them from underneath. I get it from the the gap between the IRD and the engine block. you need a magnet and a screwdriver as there is not enough room for your hands.
Everyone I have seen done the pins were fitted, but in saying that if its marked it will do the same job.

Thanks - I was afraid you were going to say that. Dealers obviously employ midgets to do this.

Asolutely stupid!!! I have the exhaust manifold off, all the turbo gear, auxil's, adn still I can't find the fricken flywheel locking pin hole. unreal.....
Does anyone have a picture, or any basic instructions PLEASE.... Im losing the plot with this motor!!!!!!!!

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Originally Posted by Tony.Beardsley

Asolutely stupid!!! I have the exhaust manifold off, all the turbo gear, auxil's, adn still I can't find the fricken flywheel locking pin hole. unreal.....
Does anyone have a picture, or any basic instructions PLEASE.... Im losing the plot with this motor!!!!!!!!

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Can't help with the hole - as I said before I know where it is but have never actually been able to see it. It is displayed in the Rave manual and the Haynes manual but I have no way of posting up pics from them.

What do you need to do to your engine - sounds like you are getting ready to pull the head off.

Garry

Attachment 37992
This is the page out of Rave. This picture of the engine doesn't have the IRD fitted. You can not get it from the top, so removing the intakes will not help, It has to be fitted from underneath, If you can't find it with this picture remove the IRD, as said previously it is between the IRD and the block. This engine was designed to go into a Rover car, making it a 4WD was a after thought.