Hi Luke, best you post this in Freelander 1 section, you might get a better responses.
Hey Guys,
While being new to the whole Land Rover scene, I've just dived into a pretty good project (hopefully...). We have a 98 Freelander- petrol- that's been sitting on the block here for years, it has no key, and I'm trying to get her started so we can see what the go is. So we've gotten as far as getting power on, we have lights on the dash. Basically we dismantled the barrel and are using the ignition switch for power. Note that it has the coil around the key hole I've seen mentioned before.
However I'm sure there is some sort of immobiliser activated. The red light stays on while key is on start, flashes when key's off. No voltage to starter solenoid.
I've spoken with land rover today, they can give me the EKA, so it could be an option to somehow use the door key barrel switches to enter the code? Another option would be to find and bypass the immobiliser somehow.
Can anyone tell me where is the immobiliser for this model? I'm having a pretty hard time finding any info about it. Also can anyone tell me is it just the starter that's immobilised? If so it'll be easy to rewire that.
Thanks a lot. Really wanna hear this beast fire up!
Cheers,
Luke
Hi Luke, best you post this in Freelander 1 section, you might get a better responses.
Hey Guys,
While being new to the whole Land Rover scene, I've just dived into a pretty good project (hopefully...). We have a 98 Freelander- petrol- that's been sitting on the block here for years, it has no key, and I'm trying to get her started so we can see what the go is. So we've gotten as far as getting power on, we have lights on the dash. Basically we dismantled the barrel and are using the ignition switch for power. Note that it has the coil around the key hole I've seen mentioned before.
However I'm sure there is some sort of immobiliser activated. The red light stays on while key is on start, flashes when key's off. No voltage to starter solenoid.
I've spoken with land rover today, they can give me the EKA, so it could be an option to somehow use the door key barrel switches to enter the code? Another option would be to find and bypass the immobiliser somehow.
Can anyone tell me where is the immobiliser for this model? I'm having a pretty hard time finding any info about it. Also can anyone tell me is it just the starter that's immobilised? If so it'll be easy to rewire that.
Thanks a lot. Really wanna hear this beast fire up!
Sorry, I'd originally posted this in tech discussion, but have moved it here.
Cheers,
Luke
Hi Luke, welcome to the Land Rover scene. I must say You certainly picked a challenging first Land Rover project to get into.
Sadly, The Freelander 1 1.8 petrols are what the Camira were to Holden.
I don't want to be a kill joy, just giving some advice Before you get to deep into it. Check it's history of why it ended up on the block.
They are notorious for blown engines caused by overheated heads. Other problems are the IRD, they are usually broken and had parts removed to make them 2 wheel drive.
If you can get your self a copy of the RAVE CD that covers the wiring diagram and component locations you will find a wealth of information.
The immobilizer is part of the CCU which is part of the fuse box under the steering wheel.
The engine ecu will also be immobilized.
You can use the EKA code but it will need to be reentered every time you want to start it.
You need a remote to disable the immobilizer
Sent from my GT-I9295 using AULRO mobile app
It doesn't leak oil, Its sweating power
Hey Guys,
Thanks for your replies. Hmmm That doesnt sound promising. From what I can gather about the history it did have overheating problems... Is there any way to tell if its blown without the motor running? Compression test i suppose?
Woko - Ive read in other models there is an alarm module which may be able to be re wired and bypassed, could this be the case here? Or you are sure that it can only be done with a remote to turn off the immobiliser? Even if I have the EKA it would be a pain in the ass to enter it each time.
I'm downloading the RAVE files at the moment, thanks.
Cheers
First, I must say that I am no expert on security systems in general, or Freelanders in particular.
Now, yes, you have run into the immobiliser. I can't see how the EKA will help, as it requires you to cycle the door locks in a specific sequence, and to do that you need a key....
So, I reckon you need a key fob, with it's barcode if poss, and a Nanocom or similar.
LAND ROVER FREELANDER & DISCOVERY KEY REMOTE FOB YWX101220L QTY 1 | eBay
There is a list here somewhere of folk who have Nanocom or similar. Not sure how you'll go in the Kimberley, but hey, we are a big community! With a fob and a nanocom I reckon you'll get by the immobiliser and she'll go.
JayTee
Nullus Anxietus
Getting involved in discussions is the best way to learn.
2000 D2 TD5 Auto: Tins
1994 D1 300TDi Manual: Dave
1980 SIII Petrol Tray: Doris
OKApotamus #74
Nanocom, D2 TD5 only.
If it has got hot it will have a blown head gasket. These engine can not handle any over heating.
The biggest problem when they overheat is the liners can drop in the block. I wouldn't even bother trying to start if you know it was over heating. Remove the head and measure the liner heights. They have to protrude above the deck of the block. If they are below the deck, the block is rubbish. DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE OVER WITH HEAD REMOVED. This can dislodge the liners. There are modifications for head gasket failure. A PRT thermostat. A new design head gasket. A strengthened oil rail.
The imobilizer is part of the CCU (the BCU) no separate module ( the later models do). It links to the engine ecu via a data link and sends a coded signal. The 2 ecu have to be mated to work. It can't be bypassed. Having the key wont get it to start without EKA. You need the remote aswell.
Sent from my GT-I9295 using AULRO mobile app
It doesn't leak oil, Its sweating power
Because of their bad history, these 1.8 Freelanders are worth nothing even if the engine does run - just not worth spending any money on them which is sad because other than the engine they were a fine car. I had a 2.0 diesel XEDI for 10 years and it was great, comfortable and reliable but because of the rotton 1.8s the whole brand suffered.
Wreck it and you might make a couple of hundred particularly if the IRD and rest of the drivetrain are OK.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Freelander 1 has a complicated immobiliser, it inhibits the engine ECU too not just the starter, the simple way to fix this is to buy a remote fob, remobilise it with EKA to be able to drive it where you can plug in a dedicated tester and synk the fob, nanocom can't do that cos there's no nanocom coverage for Fl1 nor other "domestic" tools can work with the security system... it's a Testbook T4 or specific key programming tool job
some info here http://www.aulro.com/afvb/freelander...-diesel-2.html
Discovery Td5 (2000), manual, tuned
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