Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 12

Thread: Freelander 1 - drive train

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Wandong,Victoria,Australia
    Posts
    3,276
    Total Downloaded
    0

    Freelander 1 - drive train

    Hi All,

    Does anybody know a company that can re-furbish or rebuild a drive train for a Freelander 1.

    Please see the below pic:

    Going from the left, towards the right.

    * CV joint attached to the front prop shaft. I believe that the CV joint can't be replaced - the entire propshaft needs to be replaced.
    * Centre Bearing - this can be replaced (the pair costs about $100)
    * VCU - this can be replaced (anywhere from $500 - $1000)
    * Centre Bearing - this can be replaced (the pair costs about $100)
    * Rear prop shaft - this can be replaced

    The main problem that I am having is - it's a Land Rover and all of the places that I speak to (including Hardy Spicers) seem to have NO IDEA.

    I could buy a second hand unit - but I see no point in that, especially considering the fact that it's a common issue.

    I can run on the front diff only - but does that create any long term issues with the transfer case?

    I was really hoping to take my existing unit to a drive line place and say "test and replace the centre bearings, VCU, cv joint"... But so far nobody seems to have the skill (in OZ).

    I did contact a UK company but freight is going to be a killer - and they said that the VCU should be changed "roughly every 120,000km"

    Surely I am not the only person in Australia with this issue? (Calling garrycol !!)

    Any help is greatly appreciated - this seems to be the last piece of the puzzle..

    54 Series 1 86
    61 Series 2 109 - Club Rego
    76 2 Door Range Rover
    78 101 Forward Control - Club Rego
    88 Perentie FFR - Club Rego
    90 4 Door Range Rover - Club Rego
    93 Discovery 1 200 Tdi - Club Rego
    98 Freelander 1 - Full Rego
    22 Defedner 90 - Full rego

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,474
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Those parts were available from the usual parts suppliers here and in the UK. Unfortunately it has been 14 years since I had to rebuild my drivetrain so not so sure now.

    Bearings should not be an issue. Why do you need a new rear tailshaft? The rear section is rebuildable like any propshaft - just get the UJs.

    The front CV - not sure about - I never had an issue with mine.

    VCU - for a while you could buy refurbished ones here but not seen them advertised for a while but I haven't been looking. The issue with a 98 Freelander is that the front diff ratio (in the IRD) is too different from that in the rear diff so it kills the VCU very quickly. By 180,000km my 97 Freelander had gone through 3 VCUs and on the last it killed the IRD. I bought a used IRD and VCU from a very low Km 2002 TD4 from TR Spares in SA. By the time the TD4s came around the diff ratio aspect had been fixed and they no longer systematically killed VCUs and then in turn kill IRDs. The other advantage of these later IRDs is that revs at 100kph is reduced from just over 3000rpm to around 2750rpm.

    How is your VCU damper - they need to be considered but if getting a second hand VCU you will most likely get the damper as well.

    So if you still have the original IRD you will still be going through VCUs regularly.

    I would be checking the wreckers for a low KM late model FL1 TD4 drivetrain and putting that in and investigate what IRD you have.

    If Woko is still around he can probably tell you better than I where to get the bits you want.

    Now if you dont want to 4wd the car and just drive around town then I would not worry about the rear drive. They work fine in front wheel drive only.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley
    Posts
    942
    Total Downloaded
    0
    The front half of the prop shaft which will have the cv joint in it is TVB000090. They are on ebay for $180
    It doesn't leak oil, Its sweating power

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Wandong,Victoria,Australia
    Posts
    3,276
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Hi Garry & Woko,

    Thanks for your replies - the Freelander 1 is certainly a learning curve for me.. (At the risk of getting shot down - the rear drive train seems to be a stupid design).

    My front CV is definately shot - so I will be ordering one of those (thanks Woko).

    My centre bearings are also shot - so I will be ordered a pair of those.

    I suspect that the VCU is stuffed also (I will check how tight it is). The vehicle's history is completely unknown to me - all I know is that it has 292,000km on it and the rear drive train was uninstalled already.

    I will update my other thread with all the other things I have been up to..

    Thanks again,
    GG.
    54 Series 1 86
    61 Series 2 109 - Club Rego
    76 2 Door Range Rover
    78 101 Forward Control - Club Rego
    88 Perentie FFR - Club Rego
    90 4 Door Range Rover - Club Rego
    93 Discovery 1 200 Tdi - Club Rego
    98 Freelander 1 - Full Rego
    22 Defedner 90 - Full rego

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,474
    Total Downloaded
    0
    1.8 litre petrol Freelanders are worth nothing and I mean nothing as complete vehicles - certainly worth more as parts.

    To get drive train parts it may be worth buying a complete 1.8 litre vehicle taking what you want and dumping what is left.

    It a shame LR stuffed up the front diff ratios and the cooling system of the 1.8s which killed the reputation of the Freelander. The diesels are great and were an extremely comfortable vehicle - they were the first Land rovers with Hill Descent, full four channel ABS and full four channel traction control.

    Also check the little boot in the floor of the rear cargo area. There is a design issue with the back door and if you park the car downhill in the rain, the back door fills with water and overflows into the cargo area and into the little boot - so drill some holes in the bottom to let the water out - in my 8 years of FL1 ownership I never was able to sort this as it is not a rubber seal issue.

    Also learn how to work the back window and how to reset it - particularly from the rear door key hole. Also the emergency door unlock, un mobilise procedure with the front door lock - is extremely tiresome.

    On that get a handbook and a Haynes workshop manual - if I remember there is a Rave CD that is helpful as well.

    Good luck
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Blair Athol, Adelaide South Aust.
    Posts
    2,745
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    1.8 litre petrol Freelanders are worth nothing and I mean nothing as complete vehicles - certainly worth more as parts.

    To get drive train parts it may be worth buying a complete 1.8 litre vehicle taking what you want and dumping what is left.

    It a shame LR stuffed up the front diff ratios and the cooling system of the 1.8s which killed the reputation of the Freelander. The diesels are great and were an extremely comfortable vehicle - they were the first Land rovers with Hill Descent, full four channel ABS and full four channel traction control.

    Also check the little boot in the floor of the rear cargo area. There is a design issue with the back door and if you park the car downhill in the rain, the back door fills with water and overflows into the cargo area and into the little boot - so drill some holes in the bottom to let the water out - in my 8 years of FL1 ownership I never was able to sort this as it is not a rubber seal issue.

    Also learn how to work the back window and how to reset it - particularly from the rear door key hole. Also the emergency door unlock, un mobilise procedure with the front door lock - is extremely tiresome.

    On that get a handbook and a Haynes workshop manual - if I remember there is a Rave CD that is helpful as well.

    Good luck
    Thread hijack.

    Hi Garrycol:, a friend of mine has a freebie 1 td4 2002? And the rear window stopped going down, so he can't open the tailgate. What is the procedure to reset it plz? Or does he have to disconnect the battery everytime? TIA

    Cheers Rod

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,474
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by 67hardtop View Post
    What is the procedure to reset it plz? Or does he have to disconnect the battery everytime? TIA

    Cheers Rod
    Hi Rod - I cannot remember it has been so long ago - you will need to look in the handbook or the RAVE - I am sure a google search will through up something.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Blair Athol, Adelaide South Aust.
    Posts
    2,745
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Quote Originally Posted by garrycol View Post
    Hi Rod - I cannot remember it has been so long ago - you will need to look in the handbook or the RAVE - I am sure a google search will through up something.
    Ok thanks. Ive goooooogled it. Still gotta disconnect the battery. Ill tell him cheers

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    18,474
    Total Downloaded
    0
    Has he tried lowering the window with the key in the rear door key lock?

    Or Freelander 1 Tailgate Window Problems << FreelanderSpecialist.com
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1976 Jaguar XJ12C
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Melbourn(ish)
    Posts
    26,215
    Total Downloaded
    0
    try melbourne driveshafts out at campbellfield...

    Google Maps

    $250 to rework a similar shaft in my 6x6,

    IF you can drop it to me I can take it in for you.
    Dave

    "In a Landrover the other vehicle is your crumple zone."

    For spelling call Rogets, for mechanicing call me.

    Fozzy, 2.25D SIII Ex DCA Ute
    Tdi autoManual d1 (gave it to the Mupion)
    Archaeoptersix 1990 6x6 dual cab(This things staying)


    If you've benefited from one or more of my posts please remember, your taxes paid for my skill sets, I'm just trying to make sure you get your monies worth.
    If you think you're in front on the deal, pay it forwards.

Page 1 of 2 12 LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Bookmarks

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Search AULRO.com ONLY!
Search All the Web!