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Thread: Freelander - weird clutch

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Wandong,Victoria,Australia
    Posts
    2,486

    Freelander - weird clutch

    Hi All,

    So the Freelander 1 has been on the road now for 6+ months.. As part of the rebuild - I installed a brand new clutch kit, and master cylinder.

    On normal day-to-day driving - no problems, car drives fine.

    On really hot days (35+) and after a small drive (30 minutes) - I can't select first gear.. If I turn off the engine, I can then select first - start her up and away we go...

    I took the car to the local mechanic - and asked him to check that the clutch fluid was okay - he tested it and said that the fluid was fine, and also the fluid level was fine.

    He had the car for a day - took it on multiple runs - and couldn't fault it. (He didn't charge me).

    Next hot day - same problem..

    Any ideas? Remember it has a new clutch, new master, new fluid, fluid levels are ok, fluid tested ok.

    I thought about heat wrapping the clutch line - but it's plastic, so I don't think that will do much...

    Has anybody experienced this before? At the moment SWMBO simply drives my car on hot days.. (35+).

    Cheers,
    GG.
    54 Series 1 86
    60 Series 2 88
    61 Series 2 109
    76 2 Door Range Rover
    78 101 Forward Control
    83 Stage 1 V8
    88 Perentie FFR
    90 4 Door Range Rover
    93 Discovery 1 200 Tdi
    98 Freelander 1

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Hunter Valley
    Posts
    894
    It will be the master cylinder. I've had these issues with all of the pattern parts. Use genuine or LUK, as LUK is the oem. Also check that the bracket for the slave cylinder is not cracked.
    It doesn't leak oil, Its sweating power

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    15,791
    I had similar issues with my FL1 - as Woko advised can be the master cylinder - on earlier Fl1s is a complete unit with master, pipes and slave.

    However on investigating it seemed there was not enough movement in the arm from the slave to the clutch (I think it is under the engine, bell housing at the front) - I played around with it and adjusted it up (cant remember if there is adjustment ) - anyway was still not enough - so I used washers and other things to space the lever so it had more takeup and it worked - so basically modify the clutch lever etc to make it take more up. Another great LR design feature of the Fl1.

    Sorry I am a bit vague on this but I did this over 10 years ago.

    Garry
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Canberra
    Posts
    15,791
    Looking at my posts from years ago (2011) 98 xedi - lseries head gasket

    There is a lot of good information on FL1s in the pinnacles prior to about 2013 when the FL1 was still common.

    "A problem I have at the moment is the gearchange (into first and reverse) is almost impossible when outside temp (not car temp) is above 25 degrees. The little bracket on the side of the gearbox where the slave cylinder is, either cracks or distorts not allowing full movement of the clutch so sometime you have top switch the engine off to get 1st and reverse - bracket is $25 and easy to replace."

    "After that - change the engine pipe, put in a new outer CV (has been clicking for 120,000km and 7 years and never got any worse) and put in a new clutch slave cylinder bracket so that I can change gears when the outside temp is over 25 - strange that - 20 degrees no problems - 25 degrees and reverse or first."

    From another poster back then
    "It's interesting, our K series Hippo gets fiddly with 1st / reverse when hot as well - when we bought it, the clutch takeup point was right on the floor - I checked the slave bracket - it hadn't cracked, but seemed a little bent to me, so I straightened it out and welded an extra metal triangle in to strengthen it. This moved the takeup point off the floor about 1 cm.. Then I took the slave cylinder + pipe + master cylinder unit out (can't believe they made that a single replacement part...) and mucked about bleeding the old fluid out and new fluid in (upside down Miss Jane...) and replaced it - that moved the pedal up a little more - but still notchy when hot.

    I started to suspect that the release fork / arm inside the bellhousing must be fatigued / bent - I ended up making a spacer cup to sit on the end of the slave cylinder rod to extend it about 10mm - that moved the takeup point up to a reasonable spot - it still has a spongy feel to it, and is still notchy in 1st / reverse."

    My Response
    "I have just removed my clutch slave bracket and mine is all OK - that little bend in the bracket is supposed to be there. So my 1st/Reverse issues when the car is hot is something else - like the issues you have identified. I am going to elongate the bracket mounting holes a little so that the whole bracket and slave is a little closer to the clutch actuating arm. I also am thinking of extending the shaft on the slave cylinder as you described - what did you do to achieve this?

    I pulled the little plastic end off the shaft and put a small nut inside and put it back on - makes the shaft about 3mm longer so hopefully is enough when combined with the elongated holes (3mm) in the bracket."

    Garry

    Oh - just in case you have not come across it yet - the gear lever rips the wires out of the Hill Decent Button (yes the Freelander had Hill Decent before any other LR) and wrecks the switch. I put in a microswitch in its place (from Jaycar) and lengthened the wires and was then all good.

    So design issues were wrong front diff ratio causing VCU failure and IRD failure, the clutch arm, poor rear diff mount design, troublesome rear door window (mine was never right but it still worked), rear door leaks filling the rear boot under the floor with water and the HDC switch. Otherwise the diesels were great.

    Oh on the petrols - for thermostat design that killed engines - diesels were great.
    REMLR 243

    2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
    1977 FC 101
    1973 Haflinger AP700
    1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
    1957 Series 1 88"
    1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2011
    Location
    Wandong,Victoria,Australia
    Posts
    2,486
    Thanks very much Gary. I had replaced the master cylinder and the bracket. But I will go over everything again.

    Thanks vey much for compiling and posting the above. Freelander - weird clutch
    54 Series 1 86
    60 Series 2 88
    61 Series 2 109
    76 2 Door Range Rover
    78 101 Forward Control
    83 Stage 1 V8
    88 Perentie FFR
    90 4 Door Range Rover
    93 Discovery 1 200 Tdi
    98 Freelander 1

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