Still going strong, even if it's only 2wd at the moment.
Fixed. No more water ingress at the rear. Finally. Maybe now I'll fit the roof lining. Or not!
Still going strong, even if it's only 2wd at the moment.
I fitted the roof lining a couple weeks ago. Looks great and no more drumming while driving. That's a plus. Today I painted and fitted another LHR outer door handle. Bit of a bugger. Have to remove the rear door actuator assy to get to the handle bolts. The torx socket headed bolts were all but stripped. Got them out with a tiny chisel. One was so bad, i had to use a left twist drill bit to drill the head, thankfully it came out. I replaced it with a 10mm bolt. All good now. Cheers
Things are looking grim for my freelander 1. I was sitting in a car park the other night just idling while I was charging my phone, checking forums at the same time, after about 10 mins I put it in reverse and it really banged into gear! Odd. I then put it into drive, and it banged into drive really hard. Almost like it had full line pressure in the transmission. I turned the engine off, cycled the ignition, them started it back up and it was still the same. I drove it gently home. When it hit second gear the front wheels chirped. When it went to third gear, it was like someone hit the brakes momentarily, then it went into third. Felt like it went into 3rd gear before second gear had released, then it banged into forth and then 5th gear. Was terrible. When I got home, I disconnected the battery for 20 minutes to clear any stored shift memory in the trans computer. Pain coz have to reset radios ant clocks as well. Still the same. Trans banging into gear, but no trouble codes. Now I have a broken lower engine stay mount from the very harsh shifts. Will have to try to fix that first. Might try changing the trans oil as I have no recorded service history, and she's done 361,000 ks. Must use correct oil for this transmission too. I'll see how it goes. Cheers.
Do you still have the rear drive disconnected? The reason I ask is that when my IRD failed it went like your did and all the banging was the crown and pinion in the rear PTO in the IRD banging in and out of mesh with each load change. If the rear drive is dis connected then the IRD issues should not happen then - as you suspect a gearbox issue (I didn't realise yours was an auto because if a manual the clutch can cause similar symptoms as one of the arms under the bell housing bends limiting clutch movement).
I liked my 98 Freelander - nice to drive etc but always required little fixes to get around things.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
I removed the tailshaft a few weeks ago as I could feel it dragging the car. Felt like driving with the handbrake partially on. I noticed almost immediately that the car rolled freely and a huge gain in power and fuel economy, with the V6 engine. Have to be careful when accelerating away from the lights, that you don't spin the front tyres. Trac control cuts in too if it's too violent.
Have seen on YouTube there is a solenoid in the transmission that causes my latest fault, so will complete the diagnostic procedure it advises to check the 2/4 brake duty solenoid. Very common fault it seems.
Rover 75 / ZT 2/4 Brake Duty Solenoid - Automatic Transmission. JF506E – Discount MG Rover Spares - Tel 02380 001133 / Email sales@dmgrs.co.uk
Don't know if that link will work or not. But it describes my transmission fault exactly, and a repair possibility. If the solenoid is open circuit, then that's definatly the problem. And it seems like an easy fix. I'll let you know.
I love driving my Hippo.
Drove the Hippo today, was fine, until the trans warmed up. Then it was still as it was before. So I will have to try the electronics diagnostics tomorrow see what happens. At a minimum I will change the oil. But I'll do that after the diagnostics results. Hope it is the solenoid, then I can drive my hippo again.
REMLR 243
2007 Range Rover Sport TDV6
1977 FC 101
1976 Jaguar XJ12C
1973 Haflinger AP700
1971 Jaguar V12 E-Type Series 3 Roadster
1957 Series 1 88"
1957 Series 1 88" Station Wagon
Definatly an electronic issue. Drives fine when cold, as soon as it warms up, it's terrible. All points to electronics. I have found a diagnostic procedure on utube. Will see what the results of that are after I get to it. I will do the diagnostic procedure with the trans cold and after its warmed up and the fault is present. It's pointing to a 2/4 duty solenoid or the other duty solenoid. They both control line pressure, and it feels like I'm getting full line pressure when the trans is warmed up. Will post results when I get them. Cheers.
So I've done the electronic diagnostics test, trans cold and trans warm. The results were different colt to warm but mostly still in spec. The only thing out of spec was the pressure control solenoid, tho only 1ohm out it may be enough to cause the fault. I really need to connect a good scan tool so I can read live data, and carry out function tests. Only then will I try an oil change and maybe a PCS valve, if that proves to be the fault. If not, then I'll be wrecking it out. Cheers
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