Freelander Diesel Check Engine Light

Was back on the test Book today - again something in the injection pump that only occurs on hot start. Again the rotton testbook cannot tell us anything except the fault is being generated in the area of the injection pump - doesn't say what sensor or anything else.

There is nothing wrong with the pump as evidenced by all being OK on cold starts even when it gets hot - it is just a hot start thing. The car is OK to drive just a little down on power (induced by the ECU).

The consensus is that the fuel temp sensor deep inside the injection pump maybe the cause - or maybe one of the solenoids but not the pump iteself.

However - to get to these electrical components the pump has to be removed, disassembled, sensors and anything else electrical replaced because when it is apart and the pump put back together. So a full injection pump rebuild is needed, even though it doesn't need it, all because the electric components are not where they can be easily accessed - the pump has to be pulled apart.

Cost is going to be over the top as injection pump rebuilds are expensive.

So - it stays as it is for the moment - long trips will be from cold starts and engine staying on - because there is no fault in this scenario.

Short trips around down doesn't matter.

As I am reasonably mechanical I have checked the RAVE but it does not seem to cover pulling the injection pump down. I will buy the electrical parts and if it easy to pull the pump down to replace them - I will do it next year as funding improves, if not the electrrical bits and the removed pump will go to a specialist to do the work - if i do the installing etc myself it will save costs.

I am surprised that it doesn't seem to be in the overhaul section of the RAVE - if anyone knows where it is please let me know the page number.

Thanks

Garry

Hi Garry,

I've just had a note back from my mate:

Quote:

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I never did a lot with the old L series but its a fairly basic EDC system.

What your friend needs to do when the fault is apparent (you can't find something that's not there) is monitor the outputs using T4 from, the Engine coolant, Air temperature and MAF sensors. This will show if the signals are being received by the ECM. If it shows a missing or incorrect signal he needs to firstly check the input into the sensor (in the case of the air and coolant temp this should be 5v) then check the earths to make sure they're okay (it may not be a faulty sensor it could just be a wiring or connector fault).
My thoughts are that the fault may well be in this area.

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HTH

M

Thanks Mark - I agree - it has to be something like that but I do not have a Test book so I am in the hands of the mechanics who just want to rebuild the injection pump even though it works OK - just drove 400km on a cold start with no issues - switch off and back on and fault appears.

Thanks

Garry

Quote:

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Originally Posted by garrycol

Thanks Mark - I agree - it has to be something like that but I do not have a Test book so I am in the hands of the mechanics who just want to rebuild the injection pump even though it works OK - just drove 400km on a cold start with no issues - switch off and back on and fault appears.

Thanks

Garry

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Giday , if it were me mate i think at this stage i would hang my hat over the eng light , I would just wait and see what happens , if the mechanics cant tell you for sure what it is there is no point in rebuilding a vp37 fuel pump ( i personaly have not heard of one of these playing up) . As long as the eng has all the basics going for it ,let it go and eventualy it will reveal itself .
Allen

Quote:

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Originally Posted by landy63

Giday , if it were me mate i think at this stage i would hang my hat over the eng light , I would just wait and see what happens , if the mechanics cant tell you for sure what it is there is no point in rebuilding a vp37 fuel pump ( i personaly have not heard of one of these playing up) . As long as the eng has all the basics going for it ,let it go and eventualy it will reveal itself .
Allen

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I somewhat agree except that when I start when it is hot it is in limp home mode - 3rd gear up any hill ay 60kph. Also if it is just a sensor the problem will continue for ever.

I just wish some good ole fashioned diognostics by a mechanic would come into play. The fact that it will run forever with no issues when started from cold but if switched off and back on has issues is of no interest to two seperate landrover specialists because the testbook does not tell then what to do.

The upside - the freelander's fuel consumption in limp mode is absolutely outstanding - over 50mpg on the highway vs about 40mpg normally on the highway.

More research I think.

Thanks everyone.

Garry

Sorry, did realise there was an issui with limp mode . Have read full post and have to agree is a bit of a mistery .

It is apparent that the problem is caursed by tempreture or some false report of heat above 20c . Not sure weather the maff has an air intake temp sensor in it , dont think so as far as i know the only thing the maff on an l series controlls is the egt .

Have you tried disconecting & reconnecting the battery ?, somtimes that will get rid of crap sensor readings from the ecu , edc.

can only sugest research around the following
Fuel temp sensor
Wireing harness at pump
Water temp sensor
Maybe even disconnecting various sensors i at a time .
Trottle position sensor .

Still dont think it is the pump , but somthing controlling pump .

Sorry if i have gone over stuff you have already tried .

Good luck with it , Allen

Thanks Allen,

Cleared the codes with the testbook - that is where we clarified that the fault is not there when ignition is turned on but comes in on actual engine starts. The ECU then says there is an issue with the pump but doesn't actually say what sensor is causing the issue.

I have replaced the water temp sensor and will do the air temp sensor as well however the fuel temp sensor is built into the injection pump and requires the pump to be dismantled to replace it:mad:. What a stupid design - $2000 work to replace a $20 sensor. Apparently the pump is designed and built by Bosch so I would have thought the design would have been a bit better.

The reason the ECU switches to default and turns on the light because it does not recieve a reading from a sensor that it expects - so records the error etc - however the testbook cannot read this - seems to defeat the purpose of having a testbook.

Anyway - it is staying as it is - long trips will start in the morning when the car is cold, and limp mode is not so bad driving around down.

Garry

Visited the stealer and two diesel specialists today - stealer admitted his staff were not well trained on landies and even had major problems looking up spare parts - I can attest to this - but he did indicate he can get me a new injector pump for $1500 if necessary.

Went to a well known diesel company - they believe that at 245,000km the pump is on its last legs combined with some electronic issues - the guy indicated that it should start when cold but will have issues when hot as it changes fuel pressure - this was spot on what is happening - but then the guy got crankie and said I was wasting his time - I guess he did not like my questions - here was me about to give him the job - and he just walks away - obviously too much work.

The second diesel company guy was excellant - he has electronic diagnostic equipment that bypasses that in the car and he can test the entire function of the pump and its own electronics on the bench. In the new year I will remove the pump and give it to him for testing. Fully testing the injection pump electronics through the landrover system is not possible.

While not familiar with Freelanders the Bosch injector pump and its electronics is well known - seems it is fitted to a few other cars including earlier model transit vans.

Before I put it in - I will make sure the connectors are all clean and OK.

Some progress at last.

Cheers

Garry

Good news , the pump is a vp37 direct injection , and is coman to a few vehicles , also BMW , Rovers , etc . hope all works out , with 245K on the clock your not doing to bad .!!:):)

Ps Dont for forget the shaft timing locking pin on pump removal.