Replacement fuel injection pump is alive !

Yep the gearing differences between the 1.8 and diesel are definitely in the gearbox - the same gearbox (PG1) has been in a lot of different vehicles with at least 4 different final gearing applications. The diesel version on the Freelander also had upgraded bearings compared to the 1.8 version. Makes sense from Rovers point of view as they got to use the same IRD in both 1.8's and diesels while utilising their PG1 gearbox that they're already putting into a bunch of other vehicles. Its annoying that Rover didn't see fit to stamp their IRD's with an ident code. If/when I get myself a new VCU I'll be keeping an eye on it for signs of seizing to protect my IRD in future.

More info is available here
ref. Rover PG1 gearbox - SELOC TechWiki

And yes the failed IRD and good 1.8 gearbox on fleabay is mine :) Not sure who's going to buy the gearbox or when - they don't tend to die very often. But had plenty of interest in the dead IRD so far - visually the crownwheel and pinion look untouched by the shrapnel.

Using your figures I'll be able to tell which IRD I've got once I get it up to 100kph on the road.

Clark

Junosi

an interesting tale of man overcoming the odds!

I've got a 1999 diesel Freelander that has a multitude of problems (did I hear you laugh?) one of which is the diesel pump. Landrover diagnostics say its shot but it still generates pressure when the engine is cranking and the engine does run (it has burnt exhaust valve problems) so do I believe the computer or not?

I'd be very interested in the link you've found that details the "method of resetting them to their 'timed' position" as I'll need to do this on the weekend so I've also sent this request to you via Ebay since you volunteered you are selling bits at present.

Also you shipped a pump from the UK for 40 quid - who did you use? the best quote I've had is 70.

many thanks, johnd

Hi John, I've replied to your PM but I'll post here too. Good to hear I'm not alone in the '99 diesel with lots of problems' basket :)

Landrover diagnostics (at Melb Landrover) were useless to me and in fact misdiagnosed my problem the one time I took Flandy in there. They told me I needed a new lift pump in the fuel tank - the L series doesn't have a lift pump, the injection pump does it all .... They did manage to reprogram a key fob for me though so I could start Flandy without having to use the painful PUK routine (my car had no ignition either when I bought it)

Anyways, the method for pump timing resetting was pretty basic. A user called MtechUK posted it in one of the UK Freelander forums - its the only place I saw mentioning it anywhere in all my searching. The VP37's have a woodruff slot on the shaft, you'll see it when the pulley is removed from the shaft. Line the woodruff slot up with a small stamped mark on the flange surface and that's it - lock it up with the locking pin on the pump (follow the torque spec). Both of my VP37's had the stamped flange mark in almost the same location - about the 11o'clock position looking at it end on. The 'official' way according to Bosch is to use a timing gauge in through the access hole and take two measurements - access hole is the middle bolt thing in the pump head by the four pipe outlets. The woodruff slot method isn't as accurate but it worked for me and should be very close to perfect if you're careful.

Here's the original link to the british forum post - Mtechuk's post is about 5 posts down, he goes on to say a little more later in the post.
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/fre...ump-70989.html

As for british couriers. By far the cheapest I found was Cheap International Postage Rates to Australia - but requires the sender to create an account with them - which was quick, free and painless. My seller did this and it cost me £46. The next cheapest I found was Courier Quote - Shipment Details and they were £60 but less hassle to the seller.

Here's a couple of photo's:
VP37
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...009/05/451.jpg
Woodruff slot and flange stamp
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...009/05/452.jpg
Closeup flange stamp
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/im...009/05/453.jpg


Good luck

Clark

Quote:

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Originally Posted by johnd

I've got a 1999 diesel Freelander that has a multitude of problems (did I hear you laugh?) one of which is the diesel pump. Landrover diagnostics say its shot but it still generates pressure when the engine is cranking and the engine does run (it has burnt exhaust valve problems) so do I believe the computer or not?

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The fuel shut-off solenoid in the fuel pump can cause issues and is easily got at. My "experts" told me that my pump was cactus but it was just a little bit of crud in the solenoid - just pulling it out and putting it back in fixed it.

Also the system is fully Bosch including the ECU programming - a Bosch fuel injection expert has better diagnostics than landrover and can "bench run" the pump without the car ECU.

Garry

Clark - was you fuel pump actually cactus or just timed wrong? As I said ages ago - they are pretty reliable and I was surprised when you first said it was knackered.

Garry

Both, it was 120 degrees out and cactus - I suspect one of the previous owners has had it off and in the shop for diagnosis - found it was dead and then put it back on in a hurry to sell to an unsuspecting customer and got the timing massively out.

Out of curiosity I installed the original (cactus) pump in place with the correct timing and it had all the same symptoms - no high pressure and nothign out the injectors. I've had the pump apart and there was a fair bit of metallic particles in there, the electronics all appeared fine. A few VW sites I've seen sell replacement hydraulic heads ($100-$125usd - 10mm-12mm) for VP37's and have commented that the heads do wear out and require periodic replacement. Not sure how long they are expected to last but mine had done approx 250,000kms. I think the VW crowd have been using the VP37's for a while before they were on freelanders so they're probably hitting the higher k's first. I'm debating whether to buy one of the replacement heads and gasket kits ($25usd) and rebuild my old pump. Might also require new feed pump ($25usd) and potentially cam plate ($35). I'd like a spare pump, but might just be more cost effective to get another low k's ex-UK one.

Also my Flandy has had a very hard life. From the amount of dust it had in it, offroad tyres worn to the steel and cb radio's it had I reckon it spent most of its life offroad - so no telling what quality diesel its been running. A lot of places say stick to main outlets that have a high turnover of diesel so if its been using skanky old farm diesel for a long time then that wouldn't help pump wear either.

Clark