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Thread: Servicing your FL2 TD4

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Servicing your FL2 TD4

    Well I had a go at this and it's all quite straight forward except the oil filter. I did a "B" service which is:
    • Engine oil filter and seal
    • Pollen filter
    • Air filter
    • Fuel filter

    Let's start with the easy bit. The pollen filter really a 5 minute job as described here. Cool accent
    [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LtQAQEsL2dU]Land Rover LR2 Cabin Filter Replacement - YouTube[/ame]

    Air filter. Couple of torx screws and that's a 5 minute change too.

    Fuel filter well this is a little harder. You need to remove 3 screws for the acoustic cover so you can see the top of the engine. You will see the fuel filter at the front of the engine near the radiator. You disconnect all fuel lines, remove three allen key bolts and you also need to remove the metal shield from the front, again three bolts. Remove old filter and replace with a new one. Now the tricky bit you need to prime the filter as simply connecting the lines will leave you with a non starting engine. LR require a special tool for this the part number is 310-163 and the price is 216 Euro. So instead of that get this tool Diesel Injection System Priming Device. You will also need about half a metre of 10mm fuel hose. Connect as shown in the attached PDF. Pump till hard and have some rags ready as you will get a bit of diesel around the place. Replace everything and it should be good.

    Now oil and filter. remove bash plate, undo sump plug and drain oil. Now for the fun bit and I recommend you get one of these. [ame="http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silverline-993058-Flexible-Ratchet-Spanner/dp/B000NBTX2W"]Silverline 993058 27 mm Flexible Ratchet Spanner: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/314czVxdWRL.@@AMEPARAM@@314czVxdWRL[/ame]. If someone can help with me getting one of these in Australia it would be appreciated. I used a 27mm socket and bar and it is just really hard to get at. Trust me the 27mm ratchet spanner would make the job very simple, like 10mins comaperd to the hour I struggled. Anyway once done remove plastic oil filter cover, replace filter, use new copper sump plug, fill with 5.9L of oil.

    Total cost was $170 for genuine service parts delivered. $85 for 10L of oil. $45 for priming tool which I can use again. Recommended time is 2.1 hours, for me about 3.1 because of that damn oil filter but 2.1 hours easy now I've done it.

    What does LR charge for this? $600?
    Attached Files Attached Files

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2013
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    melbourne
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    awesome! looks like i'll be doing this soon! glad to see alot of do-it-your-self here!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Winmalee
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    I haven't had a dealer service for over 100,000 kms but I get a mechanic to follow the service schedule because I have extended warranty that I don't want to void. I have helped him a few times so I know where everything is when the warranty runs out in September. The oil filter sucks indeed...could they have made it harder?

  4. #4
    Nairbr Guest
    A company called Gear Wrench make those flexible ratchet spanners, you have to go to speciality tool stores to get them or Ebay. They are a must have for working on cars
    WRENCHES > Ratcheting > | GearWrench™

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Perth
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    Mine is due shortly - first time round it took me an age to get the oil filter off. This time round Im prepped with a 27mm ratchet ring spanner and knowing what I am in for will save me at least an hour and a half.
    The hardest problem I had was actually seeing the oil once I filled it - I overfilled it to start off with! Its so bloody hard to see on the dipstick!!!

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Townsville
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    Quote Originally Posted by inside View Post
    Well I had a go at this and it's all quite straight forward except the oil filter. I did a "B" service which is:
    • Engine oil filter and seal
    • Pollen filter
    • Air filter
    • Fuel filter

    Let's start with the easy bit. The pollen filter really a 5 minute job as described here. Cool accent
    Land Rover LR2 Cabin Filter Replacement - YouTube

    Air filter. Couple of torx screws and that's a 5 minute change too.

    Fuel filter well this is a little harder. You need to remove 3 screws for the acoustic cover so you can see the top of the engine. You will see the fuel filter at the front of the engine near the radiator. You disconnect all fuel lines, remove three allen key bolts and you also need to remove the metal shield from the front, again three bolts. Remove old filter and replace with a new one. Now the tricky bit you need to prime the filter as simply connecting the lines will leave you with a non starting engine. LR require a special tool for this the part number is 310-163 and the price is 216 Euro. So instead of that get this tool Diesel Injection System Priming Device. You will also need about half a metre of 10mm fuel hose. Connect as shown in the attached PDF. Pump till hard and have some rags ready as you will get a bit of diesel around the place. Replace everything and it should be good.

    Now oil and filter. remove bash plate, undo sump plug and drain oil. Now for the fun bit and I recommend you get one of these. Silverline 993058 27 mm Flexible Ratchet Spanner: Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools. If someone can help with me getting one of these in Australia it would be appreciated. I used a 27mm socket and bar and it is just really hard to get at. Trust me the 27mm ratchet spanner would make the job very simple, like 10mins comaperd to the hour I struggled. Anyway once done remove plastic oil filter cover, replace filter, use new copper sump plug, fill with 5.9L of oil.

    Total cost was $170 for genuine service parts delivered. $85 for 10L of oil. $45 for priming tool which I can use again. Recommended time is 2.1 hours, for me about 3.1 because of that damn oil filter but 2.1 hours easy now I've done it.

    What does LR charge for this? $600?

    Actually that's really not all that's done in a dealer service. That's all the parts that are changed yes but a lot more is done to the car..... All cars are checked for outstanding recalls via the dealer website access (not available to non dealer workshops) full DTC read is carried out, h20 content in brake fluid is measured, coolant strength is measured, battery voltage and condition measured, pad and disc thickness and run out is measured, tyres are rotated, air con temp is measured and all suspension bushes are individually checked by hand, locks and latches are lubricated, handbrake is adjusted, and all levels are checked.....just to name a few points. All of this is preventive maintenance that is per LR recommendations. Granted you don't have to do any of that and any of the further list that I have not mentioned if you do not wish to but I'm just pointing out that filter and oil changes are NOT all that the dealer does then charges you for. You also need to include the charge for oil filter disposal....as they don't just put it in household waste as I'm guessing you did.

    My suggestion is next time someone takes their car in for a service with a reputable dealer that they watch the technician working on the car......they do a lot more than you think.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Tasmania
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    "Tyres are rotated" -

    This falls into the "maybe" or "if we feel like it" categories. Apparently with some dealers it is more important to wash the car and spray the tyres with some sticky crap (to make them look black) which also goes all over the mags and makes the wheels grab every bit of disk pad dust and adhere it firmly so that it takes several future washes to get rid of it.

    The one time I actually asked the dealer to rotate the wheels during a service, guess which thing they "forgot" to do?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Townsville
    Posts
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan7140 View Post
    "Tyres are rotated" -

    This falls into the "maybe" or "if we feel like it" categories. Apparently with some dealers it is more important to wash the car and spray the tyres with some sticky crap (to make them look black) which also goes all over the mags and makes the wheels grab every bit of disk pad dust and adhere it firmly so that it takes several future washes to get rid of it.

    The one time I actually asked the dealer to rotate the wheels during a service, guess which thing they "forgot" to do?
    Yer they do forget often im sure but the only solution is to Find a better dealer. Not all of them are the same after all.....Red rooster was great when I lived in albury, now I'm in townsville its crap!

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2015
    Location
    Australia
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    Primer Pump

    Hi was just wondering if anyone knew where I could buy a diesel primer pump? It is for a 2012 Range Rover Evoque. Any info would be appreciated.

    Thanks Doug.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 1970
    Location
    Melbourne
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    This tool works, have used it myself on a FL2 Diesel. Leaks a little in use but gets the job done.

    Diesel Injection System Priming Device

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