Penrite Coolant

**Mark130** · 1st December 2017, 12:49 PM

Hello All,

I've been meaning to flush and replace the coolant in my 2002 TD5 for quite a while but things keep getting in the way. I have no records of it ever being done so it could be 15 years old.
I spoke to my local mechanic (who I trust) about doing it for me. He said they'd flush and pressure clean and would guarantee they'd be no cross contamination if he used the green penrite coolant they usually use.

I've checked the old threads, and couldn't find anything recent. I didn't even know penrite made a red OAT coolant.
There doesn't seen to be a lot of difference between the red and green apart from a couple of inhibitors

But I'd prefer to be cautious and retain the red OAT .
I just thought I'd put it out there in hope someone can explain in simple terms what is the problem with the green?

Again, I'm basing this question on the fact that all original coolant will be 100% removed and there can be no cross contamination.

penrite coolants.GIF

Cheers
Mark

**LouNat58** · 1st December 2017, 12:52 PM

F

**Toxic_Avenger** · 1st December 2017, 04:56 PM

The dialogue is amazing.

For my vehicle, I was going to go by the bible (the service manual) which for a PUMA, recommends:

Item	Specification
Anti-freeze	WAS-M97B44-D
Anti-freeze concentration - Will provide frost protection to -40°C (-40°F)	50%
Specific gravity of coolant at 20°C (68°F), to protect against frost down to -40°C (-40°F)	1.068

**pop058** · 1st December 2017, 05:29 PM

Originally Posted by LouNat58

F

English Man, English.

**LouNat58** · 1st December 2017, 05:31 PM

Originally Posted by pop058

English Man, English.

Hi, just saying I am following this post with interest :-)

**travelrover** · 1st December 2017, 05:33 PM

Originally Posted by LouNat58

Hi, just saying I am following this post with interest :-)

Me too :-)

**AK83** · 1st December 2017, 06:03 PM

Originally Posted by Mark130

.....

But I'd prefer to be cautious and retain the red OAT .
I just thought I'd put it out there in hope someone can explain in simple terms what is the problem with the green?
....

Can't help with the explanation of the issue with the green coolant, but if you use the product selector on the Penrite website they recommend the blue coolant.

Penrite TD5 recommendations
(Link didn't go directly to the page I hoped, but choose commercial -light medium 4WD .. is where the Landrover entries are .. not car type 4WDs!!)

The only difference(if it makes a difference that is) that I can see from the product pages is that the red OAT coolant is

"Phosphate, Amine, Borate and Nitrite free"

and the blue coolant is

"Silicate, Phosphate, Amine, Borate and Nitrite free"

The difference is the lack of silicate in the blue one, that they recommend for the TD5.
Have no idea if the Silicate in the red one do any damage to the Td5, and why they wouldn't do so in the Tdi, as the 8 yr red OAT is the recommendation for the 300 Tdi.

Green coolant seems to contain Silcates, and Borates by comparison.

Hopefully someone with chemical knowledge of those compounds and their effect on TD5's can come along and help with that .. otherwise I'd just go with their (blue) recommendation.

**Bytemrk** · 1st December 2017, 06:21 PM

Originally Posted by LouNat58

Hi, just saying I am following this post with interest :-)

LouNat58, There is a system within the forum for that..

If you look at the top of the thread, there is a menu item "Thread tools" if you select subscribe to thread, you get a couple of different options as to how you want to be notified.

A post that simply says "F".... is just as likely to get deleted as a pointless post by a mod or admin tidying up

.

**LRpete** · 2nd December 2017, 05:27 AM

I'm also interested in this thread and the question about green coolant. Are the different inhibitor chemicals less "good" in some way or just different.

It seems Penrite recommends their Blue product for the Disco 1 V8. An OAT with no silicates.

I assume the Landrover Red OAT coolant has no silicates then ?

**rick130** · 2nd December 2017, 06:26 AM

Very basic description.
Older type silicate/nitrate/borate based glycol coolant coat the internal surfaces to give corrosion protection, newer style OATs and HOATs don't coat but react to the starting process of corrosion and neutralise it.

OAT and HOAT glycol coolant have a much longer life than silicate inhibitor coolant.

OAT and HOAT coolant also provide better heat transfer, somewhere between older style coolant and straight water partly due to the lack of coating, and partly due to reducing the surface tension of the water because of their inhibitor package.

OATs in particular will tend to weep more readily than older style coolant, probably due to that reduced surface tension.

Edit. Land Rover. OAT is straight Caltex/Texaco ELC coolant, as used in countless GM engines too, nothing fancy or unique.
Early versions of Texaco ELC used a certain chemical that unfortunately softened silicon, so if silicon based gaskets or O rings are used anywhere coolant was present they would soften and eventually fail giving the coolant a less than stellar reputation.
Most OATs don't use that chemical anymore.

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