More Holden Trouble

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Originally Posted by akelly

Jase, I'm not saying this is 100% iron-clad for sure, but it certainly has all the halmarks of dodgy valve stem seals. At least thats what I would be replacing if mine had those symptoms.

For what its worth, the quick way to replace them is to make an airline adaptor that screws into your spark plug thread. Most people use an old spark plug, gut it and braze a fitting for an airline to it. You then screw it in, run your compressor (which keeps the valves from dropping into the cylinder) then remove the valve springs one at a time and replace the seals, putting the springs back on before you move to the next cylinder. Its a bit of a bastard job but it saves replacing a head gasket and its pretty quick once you get the hang of it. To be honest, it is actually a real bastard - especially if you drop a collet into an oil gallery... :wasntme:

You're pretty handy, you would be better off to just pull the head and do it properly. A short term fix is to put a heavier oil in - but be warned, it may go for another 10 years like that!

Hope that all helps and I'm not being too condescending.

Cheers,

Adam

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If you ae going to do this, turn each cylinder up to TDC before removing the collets and springs.

Old used car dealer trick for valve stem seals. Use a piece of fuel injection hose that is a neat slip fit over the valve stem. Cut it just long enough that it will concertina slightly when the valve is open. Works a treat.

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Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK

sounds like its your valve guides or valve stem seals......or both........


when you closed off the throttle after giving the engine a rev......the manifold vacuum sucked oil in through the valve guides......
and thats what you saw out the back.....

if it was your piston rings......holding the revs at about 2000 rpm would cause the engine to start blowing smoke.......

just keep driving as normal and keep an eye on your oil level......


when was it last changed......and what oil was used.......?

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I changed the oil about 7 months ago its just the cheap bilo crap..
I'm looking for another blue head at the moment to set up for the unleaded so i will probably just keep an eye on it for a little while (a few weeks). & then just rip it off i haven't put any coolant in it just yet as was making sure the overheating was fixed so i can do that as well..
I was pretty sure it was valves somewhere. just wanted to get a reasurance as such..
THANKS guys
Jason & Karen..

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Originally Posted by Brian Hjelm

If you ae going to do this, turn each cylinder up to TDC before removing the collets and springs.

Old used car dealer trick for valve stem seals. Use a piece of fuel injection hose that is a neat slip fit over the valve stem. Cut it just long enough that it will concertina slightly when the valve is open. Works a treat.

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Na i think i will just take it off & do it..
I couldn't bring myself to do the hose over the valve stem . I would be paranoid to much after doing that..(SHUDDER)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by akelly

Jase, I'm not saying this is 100% iron-clad for sure, but it certainly has all the halmarks of dodgy valve stem seals. At least thats what I would be replacing if mine had those symptoms.

For what its worth, the quick way to replace them is to make an airline adaptor that screws into your spark plug thread. Most people use an old spark plug, gut it and braze a fitting for an airline to it. You then screw it in, run your compressor (which keeps the valves from dropping into the cylinder) then remove the valve springs one at a time and replace the seals, putting the springs back on before you move to the next cylinder. Its a bit of a bastard job but it saves replacing a head gasket and its pretty quick once you get the hang of it. To be honest, it is actually a real bastard - especially if you drop a collet into an oil gallery... :wasntme:

You're pretty handy, you would be better off to just pull the head and do it properly. A short term fix is to put a heavier oil in - but be warned, it may go for another 10 years like that!

Hope that all helps and I'm not being too condescending.

Cheers,

Adam

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Now thats the SCARRY way to do it...
It would be my luck i would drop a valve..

As Brian said, if you have the piston at TDC the valve cant drop right in - the trick is to keep pressure upwards so you can get the valve spring back on.

After gobbing off about it I think its probably easier to just take the head off! Especially if you dont have the jigger already. Its been at least 17 years since I did one this way... I'd probably just try thicker oil and see what happens (I'm a lazy bugger though).

Cheers,

Adam

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Originally Posted by banjo

Now thats the SCARRY way to

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It's not the way i would do it either:D:D;)

the bit you need to be careful with when putting compressed air in the cylinder.....
is to make sure it doesnt push the piston down......as this will turn the engine and open the other valve.....
releasing the pressure and letting the valve drop in the engine.....


fun.....

Quote:

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Originally Posted by DEFENDERZOOK

the bit you need to be careful with when putting compressed air in the cylinder.....
is to make sure it doesnt push the piston down......as this will turn the engine and open the other valve.....
releasing the pressure and letting the valve drop in the engine.....


fun.....

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Guranteed thats what would happen to me for sure..:D:cool:

there is another way.......you push some cord into the cylinder through the sparkplug hole.......then turn the engine till that piston is up........

this will hold the valves........then you just turn the engine back to release the pressure on the cord......and pull it back out.......

Na i'll just stick to finding another head..

I'm a wuss :eek::eek::twisted: