How are you going to fit 20 inch and 22inch rimmed tyres under a Series body, as these are truck sized rims and you don't really expect to get it registered do you:eek:
cheers
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How are you going to fit 20 inch and 22inch rimmed tyres under a Series body, as these are truck sized rims and you don't really expect to get it registered do you:eek:
cheers
265/35/22 as mentioned before is only a 29.3" tyre.Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleHo
Plenty of rice burners have that sized tyres - even some RRs.Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleHo
Garry
Thanks for your help guys...the whole idea was to get ideas, and input.
For the idiots with nothing better to do than critisice others, projects or plans **** OFF.
I never asked you about truck wheels, or if you can register my car.
I asked a simple question, and thanks to those that answered it.
Anyways like all forums, there is the KEYBOARD Warriors who know EVERYTHING about EVERYTHING, maybe yopu should thinks twice before you post, on someones thread if you are just there to critise.
Anyway guys as I said, I am building something different, and if it doesn't interest you, or you don't like it, skip past it, to the next thread.
Thanks Chad
And by the way, it will be engineered, has already been consulted and doing it to his specs.
The rear salisbury diff is HUGE, and more than capable of being used in permanent 2wd, with as much HP as you want to throw at it.
It is 99% the same diff as a Dana 60 (google them), and you can fit all the Dana 60 ratios (3.54:1 to 7.17:1).
The axle shafts are only 1.24" 24-spline, but can be upgraded to 1.5" 35-spline (or even larger) if you are that way inclined, using parts from McNamara diffs in melbourne or rovertracks in the US. I have some spare 35-spline side gears that I probably won't use if you ever want to go that way (and keep an open diff).
So your options are either 2wd, with the centre diff in the t-case permanently locked or welded up (if you remove the front prop the car will go nowhere with the CDL unlocked), OR, mix and match ratios and keep 4x4 (fronts are available in 3.54, 3.9, 4.1, 4.7).
Don't fit a 9". D60s are cheaper to build for the same strength or better.
thanks mate
Really appreciate it.
Chad...
I will start working out the best way to go, I just wasn't sure if the transfer had some type of diff inside, and the diameter difference wouldn't worry it, kind of like a open diff when cornering, lets it go around, rather than skip etc.. like a locked diff.
Some one else posted saying I could remove the front internals, and make it kind of just freewheel, that is and option too.
The transfer does have a diff, located just behind where the front propshaft bolts on. However it will eventually heat up and seize (and/or wear out) if used on-road with different size wheels for long.Quote:
Originally Posted by Chad
G'day Chad
I gather by your post no 14 that you are somewhere between 16-26 some 40 years my junior and some 50 years less experience in the automotive world than me, BTW I was drag racing in 1966/7 at what was Castlereagh drag strip, and I spent most of my working life in the motor trade.
and I OBJECT to your language of -----*****off
Uncle Ho
With respect UncleHo - all your years of experience haven't improved your reading and comprehension. Chad clearly posted the tyre sizes he was fitting to his 20 and 22" rims.Quote:
Originally Posted by UncleHo
G'day Isuzurover :)
I did miss the profile of the tyres that he stated,but his first post on the thread, started with "I know I ask some pretty dumb questions and this could well be one of them" and with a post count of 22 and seeing that most people on this site are 4x4 and offroad inclined, it would be assumed that it was a sensible answer,as the post stated that he was building something based on a V8 109 ute, and that it was not a competition vehicle.
But, there was no need for the language used.
cheers