Electric chainsaw sharpeners

**rick130** · 15th August 2010, 03:29 PM

Originally Posted by Fluids

[snip]
... I flip a new chain on as soon as the one in use looses it's edge ...
[/snip]

Multiple loops when going cutting help, eh

I've got that many loops in so many lengths from chipper through to full chisel I think I've lost count. Two different gauges too, but that'll be sorted out slowly.

One of the pro firewood cutters around here uses one saw (Shinny 757 I think) one chain and one bar

I'm damned if I know how he does it. I couldn't be arsed sharpening as i go (says he that did it three times yesterday...)
The saw has seen better days too, my mate who runs the local saw/small engine shop has had to patch it quite a few times, i think there's more weld on the muffler now than original steel.

Tombie · 15th August 2010, 04:16 PM

I have a lovely little Dremel attachment that does a great job.

**Fluids** · 15th August 2010, 05:44 PM

Yeah Tombie, I had a rep in a couple of months ago with what looked like a Dremel chainsaw sharpener, but it was cordless/rechargeable like a cordless screwdriver, with variable speed ... neat bit of kit, almost bought one ... but I didn't really need it so passed.

Kev..

**Fluids** · 15th August 2010, 05:51 PM

Originally Posted by rick130

Multiple loops when going cutting help, eh

Definitley !

... you get more life out of a chain this way as it requires much less sharpening ... if you don't flog it to death.

I had a small Jonsered saw in a while ago, and all the antivibe springs were bent (???), the power head sat croocked in the chassis ... after quizzing the guy out about it ... the guy had been leaning into it really hard to get it to cut ... because it had a blunt chain! ???

... some people !

The other one I get a bit of, is folks who hand sharpen the chain (stupid bloody cutter angles btw) and ask for a sharpen as the chain won't cut any longer .... chain's sharp enough but the rakers/depth guages have never been lowered

Kev..

**LandyAndy** · 15th August 2010, 06:09 PM

Cheers for the replys people.
I can sharpen a chain no problems,Ive seen the guys try to use the sharpener at work and destroy chain after chain!!!!!
I wanted one of these mainly for the big chains I have,there are a LOT of teeth on a 4 foot bar!!!!
I can get a chain sharper and cutting true than most can with a gig or sharpener freehand.When out cutting wood soon as it dulls I give it a qick wipe with a chainsaw file alone,no guide.Can usually fill the trailer(was a 6x8 tandem,2t of wood) on 1 fillup and no sharpen.

.
Andrew

**big guy** · 15th August 2010, 08:37 PM

Originally Posted by LandyAndy

Cheers for the replys people.
I can sharpen a chain no problems,Ive seen the guys try to use the sharpener at work and destroy chain after chain!!!!!
I wanted one of these mainly for the big chains I have,there are a LOT of teeth on a 4 foot bar!!!!
I can get a chain sharper and cutting true than most can with a gig or sharpener freehand.When out cutting wood soon as it dulls I give it a qick wipe with a chainsaw file alone,no guide.Can usually fill the trailer(was a 6x8 tandem,2t of wood) on 1 fillup and no sharpen.

.
Andrew

Andrew
I got rid of my chainsaws as I move from the hills and still have my Stihl sharpening tool.
Runs off 12V battery, great for field charging.
Its yours for the cost of postage if you want it.

**rick130** · 15th August 2010, 10:56 PM

Originally Posted by Fluids

[snip]

The other one I get a bit of, is folks who hand sharpen the chain (stupid bloody cutter angles btw) and ask for a sharpen as the chain won't cut any longer .... chain's sharp enough but the rakers/depth guages have never been lowered

Kev..

Well, it least that's safer than the blokes that grind the rakers right down or right off 'cause it's better'

One of my mates is a fencing contractor, has been for twenty odd years and he just did his rakers by eye. (uses an Oregon guide for the top plate angle though)
All he ever did was guess it and try to take them down by even strokes. Last chain I looked at of his wasn't pretty in that department.

I gave him an Oregon 25 thou depth gauge tool but tried to explain that as the cutter gets filed back the raker height has to drop proportionately to maintain the cutter angle in the timber and therefore you'll maintain cutting speed.
He's a great bloke but the poor buggars eyes started to glaze.....

**trobbo** · 16th August 2010, 09:19 AM

I have a cheap electric sharpener and never use it as I cant get a good result with it. But I have used it to deburred a chisel with satisfactory results.

I usually work on the ratios of
1 tank of fuel = 1 sharpening of chain which I do by hand.
2 chain hand sharpenings = 1 pro sharpen.

Hopefully that way my misdemeanours sharpening the chain wont be too evident giving the pro's the opportunity to laugh at my work.

**rovercare** · 16th August 2010, 11:08 AM

Got one, I'm far to impatient for hand filing, the cheapy works well, in that it sharpens the chain for a good cut, but it does wear the chain faster and its only accurate when you work out where the "flex" in the grinder head is, none the less, I still prefer it, its quick easy and if I have to buy a new chain or 2 in 3 years instead of 5, so be it

I used to have all my chains done by the saw doctor when I worked at the wood mill, then they got rid of him

now that was the go, raker's adjusted correctly, like a brand new chain everytime

**incisor** · 16th August 2010, 11:52 AM

i was doing my little 16 inch chains by hand but i just got myself an as new used husky 55 with 18 inch bar and so have to update all my gear to suit the .325 chain used on it. 3/16th i think instead of 5/32.

when i win lotto i will be getting a good quality grinder and half a dozen chains

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